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Swansea (Welsh: Abertawe) is a city and local government area in south Wales, UK. The history of Swansea includes a continuous period of human occupation stretching back one thousand years, and there is evidence for consistent occupation of the surrounding area for thousands of years before that. Swansea was the main town of the region for much of the mediaeval period. In the eighteenth century, the beauty of its surroundings led local dignitaries to attempt to establish it as a tourist resort. It achieved far greater prominence with the onset of the Industrial Revolution. Mirroring the similar population explosions in the south Wales valleys, the town's population rose from 6000 to 17,000 between 1801 and 1851. Industry grew throughout the nineteenth century, drastically changing the shape and even geography of the town and its surroundings. In the twentieth century, industry declined but the town continued to grow in population. Swansea officially became a city in 1969.

Pre-industrial Swansea

The oldest known remains on the Gower Peninsula are the Red Lady of Paviland: human bones dating from 22,000BC (Strawbridge and Thomas, 1999). Later inhabitants also left their mark on the land. Examples include the bronze age burial mound at Cillibion and the iron age hill fort, Cil Ifor. (Davis, 1990, page xx). Isolated prehistoric artifacts have been found in the area the city proper occupies, but there are far more on Gower. The remains of a Roman villa were also excavated on Gower.

By the late tenth century, the region as a whole (including the land around the bay as well as the Gower Peninsula) was part of the Welsh kingdom of Deheubarth under Maredudd ap Owain. (Davis, 1990, pp ).The Vikings also visited the Swansea Bay area around the ninth to eleventh century, leaving behind their name for a settlement in the area. The precise nature and location of this settlement are still disputed. Spellings such as Swensi, Sweni and Svenshi are found on coins minted around 1140 whilst in Welsh the name Aper Tywi was in use by 1150 and its variants Abertawi, Abertaui, Abertawy in the 12th century (Pierce 2002, p182).

Mediaeval Swansea

In the wake of the Norman Conquest, Gower became a marcher lordship which included not only the peninsula itself but also the land to the east as far north as the Aman river and east to the river Tawe. This included the site of Swansea town, which was designated the capital of the area. Although Kilvey Hill is to the east of the Tawe, the manor of Kilvey was associated with Gower too. The new Norman lords encouraged English immigration into the area. This immigration was largely from the West Country.

A turf and timber castle was erected in Swansea in 1106 and was assailed by the local Welsh ten years later (and several more times in the following century). The original castle was subsequently rebuilt in stone. See also: Swansea Castle. The de Braose family—memorialised in local placenames and road names today as de Breos—possessed Gower in the thirteenth century but preferred to live at Oystermouth Castle.

The Gower lordship seems not to have been the main priority of most of the family, who took a full share in the robust politics of the day: see Reginald de Braose, John de Braose, and William de Braose for further details.

The port and industrialisation

The South Wales Coalfield reaches the coast in this region, and coal was being exported by the year 1550

along with great quantities of limestone, quarried in the Mumbles area and on Gower and in high demand as fertiliser.

Swansea was already a very significant port, and although it was small (perhaps 1000 people in 1560), it had one of the earliest town charters granted in Wales and a constant influx of migrants from the Welsh countryside: this influx occasioned a protest from the borough of Swansea in 1603 (Davies, 1990, p267).

The population at this time was concentrated around the castle and river. Despite small-scale mining, the bulk of the area beyond the town was still largely farm land. Swansea Bay was considered an attractive region and in the eighteenth century some local notables wanted to direct future development into promoting it as a resort. Their plans were frustrated by the rapid development of industry in the area.

By weight, more coal than copper ore is needed for the process of smelting copper from the ore, so it is more economical to build the smelter near the coal source. Swansea had very local mines, a navigable river, a nearby supply of limestone (necessary as flux), and trading links across the Bristol Channel to Cornwall and Devon, sources of copper ore.

As the Industrial Revolution took off, a series of works were built along the Tawe river from 1720 onwards and a series of mines were opened. Initially, the smelting works concentrated on copper. Coal was brought down to them by waggonways and tramways; copper ore was brought on ships which could sail right up to the works; and the resulting copper was exported out again. Swansea had become "Copperopolis", and the lower Tawe valley became a mass of industry.

More and more riverside wharfs were built. Tramways, waggonways and railways proliferated and connected the different works and the collieries supplying them. Today's Hafod was originally the village of Vivianstown (Vivian owned the Hafod Copper Works); and Morriston was founded circa 1790 (the exact date is unclear) by the Morris family who owned the Cambrian Works among other properties. "By 1750, the Swansea district was providing half the copper needs of Britain" (Davies, p 316).

The Cambrian Works closed down as a smelter but reopened as a pottery in 1764: pottery-making is another industry which requires vast quantities of coal (available locally) and clay and flint (available from the West Country, readily accessible by water). The Glamorgan Pottery was founded in 1813 by the ex-manager of the Cambrian Pottery, right next door to it and in direct competition with it. Not only the managers of the potteries but many of the workers came originally from Staffordshire. (Swansea Museum Services) Examples of Swansea pottery can be seen today at the Glynn Vivian Art Gallery and at Swansea Museum.

One of the most well-known pieces of Swansea's history began life at this stage: the Mumbles Railway. This started in the first decade of the 1800s as an industrial tramway: a horse pulling a cart along tramplates. It had a specific branch line into Clyne valley where Sir John Morris, one of the railway's owners, owned coal mines. Despite some early journeys made by tourists, it was not until the 1860s that the railway began to carry passengers regularly, by which time it had acquired rails instead of tram plates.

As the town expanded, gates put up by the local turnpike trust were no longer on the outskirts of town but in the town itself. (Molloy) Originally travel between Swansea and other towns or villages had involved paying tolls. Now, travel around the town itself required toll money. This was naturally an unpopular development, and in 1843, Swansea inhabitants made their own contribution to the Rebecca Riots, burning the Ty Coch gate in St Thomas. (Campbell) In the same year, workers from all the copper works in Swansea went on strike after their wages were cut. They returned to work five weeks later, having failed to restore their wages. The strike must have been born of desperation. It was known that John Henry Vivian, one of the owners of the copperworks, was no supporter of workers' rights: he had blacklisted men involved in earlier disturbances. (Campbell)

Civil disturbances were a regular feature of the 1840s in Swansea. This was the period of the Rebecca Riots, of Chartism in the valleys to the east, and general discontent. Huge crowds would gather when those suspected of involvement in Rebecca activities were brought to the station house, and riot was provoked when one suspect was arrested on the Sabbath (Molloy 1983). At this time, Colonel James Frederick Love commanded militia who were billeted in Swansea, and (in 1843):

Colonel Love had serious problems in deciding how best to stretch his resources. And stretched they were, because it was equally clear that Swansea needed to be strongly garrisoned to cope with violent incursions by unemployed coal and iron workers and discontented country-people, as would Llanelli when the Gwendraeth Valley troubles reached their climax in the following two months. And all the time the Chartist threat hung over the industrial areas to the east. (Molloy)

In this early part of the 19th century, the area which is now Brynmill, Sketty, the Uplands and the university campus was where several of the owners of the "manufactories" lived, in large park-like estates well to the west of the Tawe. The workers were crammed along the banks of the Tawe and lived in poor conditions. The prevailing wind carried the smoke from the copper works to the east, towards St Thomas and Kilvey. The population of the town of Swansea had already increased from 6000 in 1801 to 17,000 in 1851 (Campbell). A contemporary report written by a doctor describing Swansea Valley (Williams, 1854) speaks of a nightmare landscape, "literally burnt" where few plants would grow, dotted with lifeless pools, slag heaps, mounds of scoriae and smoke from the works everywhere. George Borrow visited the town in the same year, describing it slightly less emphatically as "a large, bustling, dirty, gloomy place". He was not convinced that Swansea people were in fact Welsh. "The women had much the appearance of Dutch fisherwomen; some of them were carrying huge loads on their heads." (Borrow, 1850s)

The contrast between the living conditions of the workers and their employers was stark, although entertainment interests sometimes overlapped: both workers and employers flocked to the Swansea races, for example, held at Crymlyn Burrows. In addition to the racing, this was also the scene of boxing, gambling, cock-fighting, shows and drinking—apparently the temperance movement had not yet taken hold.

Victorian slums and reform

In order to allow boats to dock without running aground at low tide and to remain afloat, the "Float" was constructed: the Tawe was diverted and a new dock with locks created. Work began in 1852, and the result was New Dock in 1859. Further changes to the docks were proposed, and the town authorities realised the potential grave effect on public health, particular in the riverside St Thomas area. (Dean) Drinking water came from springs locally but clean water sources were increasingly rare. Cholera broke out in 1832; and again in 1849.

The spread of disease was not surprising. There was no sewerage system in Swansea until 1857 and the water supply in areas above the reservoir level was "in many cases of a questionable character" (contemporary report quoted by Dean. The Lliw reservoir of 1863 helped provide clean water, but drainage of dirty water was still a problem.

In 1865 Swansea suffered an epidemic of yellow fever, the only outbreak of that disease on the British mainland. A cargo of copper ore from Cuba was landed in exceptionally hot weather in September, and with it a number of infected mosquitoes. In a month, 27 inhabitants were infected and 15 died.

Swansea saw yet another outbreak of cholera in 1866 and the local authorities were eventually forced by legislation to act. The only way to improve some areas was wholesale slum clearance, and this was the solution imposed in several regions of Swansea, notably Greenhill (current Dyfatty and Alexandra Road area), an area with massive overcrowding and consequent disproportionate incidence of cholera cases. It was populated largely by Irish immigrants, many of whom had fled the potato famines. Several of the landlords of Greenhill making great profits from their rents, and who required recompense for the loss of their properties, were local dignitaries, including Lewis Llewelyn Dillwyn, MP. (Dean)

Sewage and pollution were also part of the cause of the decline of the oyster trade centred on Mumbles, also known as Oystermouth. Kilvert's diary described a thriving and ancient industry in 1872; within five years, it had almost completely collapsed.

Swansea industry continued to grow and the planned new docks were constructed. Tinplate works proliferated in the lower Swansea Valley in the second half of the nineteenth century (and on into the twentieth). The port exported the tinplate all over the world. America was a major importer until the McKinley Tariff, a tax on imported tinplate, was put into force in 1891. Tinplate production and export dropped sharply and poverty in the families in the industry was acute. By contrast, a number of Welsh workers emigrated to America to work in the tinplate industry there. Domestic demand for tinplate continued and was buoyed by two world wars but, by 1950, very few works remained.

Industrial decline

During the second world war, Swansea's Queen's Dock was one end of the world's first test of a full-scale submarine oil pipeline, in Operation Pluto. Swansea was a major target for bombing raids due to its industries, the port, and railways. By the end of the so-called Three Nights' Blitz, three consecutive nights of particularly intensive bombing in February 1941, the city centre was flattened, along with many residential streets. Rebuilding post-war was in typical British nineteen-fifties style and much of the result is regarded with high favour by neither residents nor visitors. One consequence of the bombing and rebuilding is the movement of the town centre by about half a mile. Pre-war, the town centre was on an axis around High Street and Wind Street. Post-war, Oxford Street and the new road the Kingsway took more prominence.

The Mumbles Railway was closed in 1960. By 1960, industry in the valley was in steep decline and the landscape was littered with abandoned metalworks and the waste from them. The Lower Swansea Valley Scheme was started: an attempt to reclaim the polluted land into something usable. The Enterprise Zone at Llansamlet is built on part of this land. Further down the river, the Tawe was diverted—again—and the Parc Tawe development sits on top of the old North Dock. The old South Dock area now holds the Leisure Centre and Marina.

References

• Molly, P 1983: And They Blessed Rebecca: an account of the Welsh toll-gate riots 1839-1844, Gomer Press.
• Campbell, R, 200?: Terfysg Abertawe
• Campbell, R, 200?: All Bets Are Off
• Williams, T, 1854: The Effects of the Copper-Smoke.
• Hughes, S, 2005, Copperopolis: landscapes of the early industrial period in Swansea.
• Dean, B, ???? Slums: living conditions in 19th century Swansea. Swansea Museum Services.

Bibliography

• Lower Swansea Valley series of factsheets, numbers 1 to 8 Swansea Museum Services

See also

• Swansea
• History of Wales
• Swansea Vale Railway
• Swansea and Mumbles Railway

External links

• Swansea heritage net: major project to digitise important pieces in Swansea Museum Service's collection.

• Cable Tramway: Details of the Swansea Constitution Hill cable tramway.