Phu Dorjee Sherpa
Phu Dorjee Sherpa | |
|---|---|
| Born | 1928 Khumjung, Nepal |
| Died | 18 October 1969 (aged 40–41) Khumbu Icefall, Everest |
| Allegiance | India |
| Awards | |
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Phu Dorjee Sherpa (1928-1969) (also sometimes written as Phu Dorji) was the first Nepali man and 23rd person in the world to climb Mount Everest.[2]
Mountaineering
[edit]He was a member of the third Indian Everest Expedition 1965, led by Captain M S Kohli, which was the first successful Indian Everest Expedition. The group consisted of 21 major expedition members and 50 Sherpas. The initial attempt was at the end of April, when they returned to base camp due to bad weather and waited 2 weeks for better weather.[3](pp.126-137)
On 29 May 1965, on the fourth and final attempt on the 12th anniversary of the first conquest of Mount Everest, together with H. P. S. Ahluwalia and Harish Chandra Singh Rawat, Phu Dorjee summited Mount Everest. This was the first time that these three climbers climbed the mountain together.[4][5][6][7]
He was a porter on the approach march to the base camp for the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition and was one of a small group who "showed promise" during the approach and were retained to carry loads to higher camps.[8](p190) He was part of the "high level team" with Wilfrid Noyce which carried loads as far as the south col.[9] He was also recruited as a porter for the approach to Lhotse with the "The International Himalaya Expedition 1955" which was led by Norman Dyhrenfurth. He was again retained to the end of the expedition and carried loads to the Camp V at 25,000ft.[8](p192)
In 1963 he was part of the American Mount Everest expedition and he carried loads to the South Col.[10](p156 & 342)[3](pp.49)
Biography
[edit]Phu Dorjee Sherpa was born in 1928 in Khumjung, Nepal.[8](p179) He died in a fall on Mount Everest on 18 October 1969 whilst working with a Japanese expedition.[11][12][13]
Awards
[edit]- Himalayan Club Tiger Badge 1964 for his part in the 1963 American Mount Everest expedition.[14]
- Received the Padma Shri for being one of the first Indians to summit Mount Everest in 1965[15]
See also
[edit]- List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
- List of Mount Everest records of India
- List of Mount Everest records
References
[edit]- ^ "First successful Indian Expedition of 1965". www.istampgallery.com. 15 August 1965.
- ^ "Phu Dorje Sherpa". www.everesthistory.com. Archived from the original on 31 August 2009.
- ^ a b Kohli, M. S. (December 2000). Nine Atop Everest: Spectacular Indian Ascent. ISBN 9788173871115. Retrieved 5 February 2025.
- ^ "Did you know that 50 Years ago 9 Indians Held a Record for Climbing Mount Everest?". www.thebetterindia.com. 17 June 2015.
- ^ Kohli, M. S. (December 2000). Nine Atop Everest-First successful Indian Expedition of 1965. Indus. ISBN 9788173871115.
- ^ "The first Indians on Everest". www.livemint.com.
- ^ "Nine Atop Everest". www.himalayanclub.org.
- ^ a b c Kohli, M. S. (2003). Sherpas, the Himalayan legends : including the untold story of Phu Dorje, the first Nepalese to climb Sagarmatha. ISBN 9788174764492. Retrieved 5 February 2025.
- ^ Noyce, C. W. F. (Wilfrid) (1954). South Col: one man's adventure on the ascent of Everest 1953. Heinemann. pp. 125, 221. Retrieved 5 February 2025.
- ^ Ullman, James Ramsey (1964). Americans on Everest; the official account of the ascent led by Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. Philadelphia: Lippincott.
- ^ Unsworth 2000, p. 701
- ^ Dutt, Ajit (2004). "Lesser Known Sherpas". Himalayan Journal. 60. Retrieved 5 February 2025.
- ^ Ohtsuka, Hiromi (1971). "The Japanese Mount Everest Expedition, 1969-1970". Himalayan Journal. 31. Retrieved 5 February 2025.
- ^ "The Tiger Badge". Himalayan Club. Retrieved 5 February 2025.
- ^ "Padma Shree for The first Indians on Everest on 1965". www.dashboard-padmaawards.gov.in. Archived from the original on 21 October 2020. Retrieved 21 August 2019.