Bobby Breslau

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Bobby Breslau (1942/43 – January 30, 1987) was an American designer of fashion accessories. He began working with Stephen Burrows in the garment industry in the 1960s, but a commission for a fringed pillow from Halston changed his trajectory to the path of accessory and furniture design in the 1970s. His unconstructed leather handbags were declared "the handbag of the 1970's" by The New York Times.[1] In the 1980s, Breslau was a close collaborator of Keith Haring until death from AIDS-related complications in 1987.[1]

Life and career[edit]

Breslau was a New York native.[2] In the late 1960s, he was working as a graphic designer when he met fashion designer Stephen Burrows on Fire Island in New York.[3][4] Breslau worked as a leatherwear designer at Burrows' O Boutique, which opened in Manhattan in 1968.[3] Burrows and Breslau along with Burrows' friend from FIT, William Hill, as the patternmaker and fabric designer Hector Torres, worked out of the basement of the boutique.[3]

Breslau and Burrows shared an apartment in the East Village in the early 1970s.[4] After the O Boutique closed in 1970, Breslau managed Stephen Burrows Word, an in-store boutique at the luxury department store Henri Bendel in Manhattan.[5][4] He also became one of Burrows' assistants.[6] Fashion model Pat Cleveland, who was a fitting model for Burrows at Bendel's studio recalled, "Bobby was tiny, animated, and enthusiastic about almost everything Stephen did."[7]

In the early 1970s, Breslau began making bags when Halston asked him to make a fringed toy and some fringed pillows.[1] Breslau studied the construction of a baseball and emulated the stitching while sewing a fringed leather pillow.[1] Fashion designer Fernando Sanchez mistook the pillow for a handbag so Breslau added a strap and began using that design to create handbags.[1] Breslau also stated, "The whole concept of the bag came from a Japanese puzzle bag Elsa brought back from Japan—one of those bags that just folds and ties and has no seams."[8]

Breslau handmade each handbag in his East Village apartment until 1976. He gave the first one to his friend, jewelry designer Elsa Peretti, who he called his inspiration.[8] The second one was given to actress Carol Channing.[8] The handbag was shown with a Halston collection, becoming known as the "Halston bag" and was sold at Halston's boutique on Madison Avenue.[9][8][10] Breslau said, "Halston and Joe Eula were the teachers. Working with them was like going to the best university in the country."[8] The design was very popular among models, designers, and celebrities resulting in knockoffs.[8] To balance his famous large sac, Breslau came out with what he called "the littlest hobo of them all" in 1975.[11] The new design had skinny straps long enough for the shoulder or waist.[11]

According to the Chicago Tribune in 1976, the "Halston bag" was chosen by the Smithsonian Institution "as part of a permanent collection of 20 of this century’s most influential looks in American fashion."[8] Diana Vreeland, former editor-in-chief of Vogue, wrote Breslau a note that said "you are to leather what Cellini was to gold."[8]

In 1976, Breslau began designing for Andrew Manufacturing Company, a subsidiary of Andrew Geller, Inc., known for producing high-end women's shoes. He signed a deal for his own fashion label which allowed him to mass produce his designs at a lower cost than his handmade bags.[8] In 1977, Breslau created a new handbag that could be used in three ways. It was a "super-soft leather drawstring pouch with a twist to the top and a softly gathered shoulder strap."[12] It was made in various colors and size options so that it could be "everything from a little evening bag to a jumbo weekender."[12][13]

Breslau's designs appeared in Women's Wear Daily and Vogue.[4] In the late 1970s, his pillow-clutches were sold at the luxury department store Neiman Marcus, and his handbags were sold at Cul de Sac, a boutique for accessories in the luxury department store Bloomingdale's.[14][15] In 1979, Breslau licensed two pattern designs to Vogue for his "Big Pouch" and "Little Pouch."[16] His Vogue Patterns provided sewers with directions to make both handbags in three sizes.[4]

He also continued to handcraft pillows.[1] In 1981, Breslau told The New York Times, "I feel that as far as the pillows are concerned, that I'm a sculptor and that my medium is leather."[1] He liked to mix textures and worked with a variety of leathers such as "printed suedes and ostrich skin, cowhide, bronze and silver leathers, alligator as well as back leather, decorated with black patent-leather drops."[1] He used a softer palette for his pillows.[1]

Breslau was a close friend of pop artist Keith Haring, who he met at the Paradise Garage in the early 1980s.[17] Haring respected Breslau's craftsmanship and looked to him for guidance, calling him his "Jewish mother."[2][17] Haring credited Breslau with inspiring him to work with leather hides for his exhibition at the Fun Gallery in 1983.[17] Breslau managed Haring's Pop Shop in SoHo, which opened in 1986, and he supervised the merchandising.[17][18]

In early 1987, Breslau developed a lung problem, and within a week of checking himself into the hospital he died at the age of 44 from AIDS-related complications on January 30, 1987.[17] He is buried in a Jewish cemetery in Connecticut.[4]

In an interview with journalist David Sheff for Rolling Stone in 1989, Haring, who also passed away from AIDS-related complications in 1990, recalled:

When Andy passed away, I had just lost a friend of mine who was sort of like a guardian angel for me, Bobby Breslau. He was like my conscience, my Jiminy Cricket. He was working here until he got so sick that he couldn't even come to work. I think he knew that he was really sick, but it wasn't diagnosed as AIDS for a long time. By the time he went to the hospital, he died within a week.[19]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i Slesin, Suzanne (July 9, 1981). "Beyond the Fringe: A Designer's World In Leather". The New York Times.
  2. ^ a b Haring, Keith; Thompson, Robert Farris; Hockney, David (1996). Keith Haring journals. Internet Archive. New York : Viking. pp. 114–115. ISBN 978-0-670-84774-7.
  3. ^ a b c Givhan, Robin (2015-03-17). The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled Into the Spotlight and Made History. Macmillan. p. 111. ISBN 978-1-250-05290-2.
  4. ^ a b c d e f Helms, Laura McLaws (2022-02-01). "The Cellini of Leather". Sighs & Whispers. Retrieved 2024-03-01.
  5. ^ Morris, Bernadine (August 12, 1970). "The Look of Fashions for the Seventies In Colors That Can Dazzle". The New York Times.
  6. ^ Sheppard, Eugenia (1970-12-27). "Burrows Mad for Color". Corpus Christi Caller-Times. p. 40. Retrieved 2024-03-01.
  7. ^ Cleveland, Pat; Glennon, Lorraine (2017). Walking with the Muses: A Memoir. Simon and Schuster. p. 156. ISBN 978-1-5011-0823-5.
  8. ^ a b c d e f g h i Buck, Genevieve (1976-05-17). "Designer Bobby Breslau has been involved with fashion for more than a half-dozen years now". Chicago Tribune. pp. Section 4 - 5. Retrieved 2024-03-03.
  9. ^ "Outsize Handbag". The Buffalo News. 1975-01-28. p. 37. Retrieved 2024-03-03.
  10. ^ Ondovcsik, Maryann (1975-06-30). "The Halston Bag — All Sewn Up". Chicago Tribune. p. 40. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
  11. ^ a b Nemy, Enid (1975-09-21). "Bags Are Small, Smaller, Smallest". The Fresno Bee. pp. B6. Retrieved 2024-03-03.
  12. ^ a b "Accessories Alter Wardrobe". The Jersey Journal. 1977-03-24. pp. BS. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
  13. ^ "Bobby Breslau, Unconstructed, Contemporary (Balliets Advertisement)". The Sunday Oklahoman. 1977-04-24. p. 7. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
  14. ^ "Plump, pillowy, cushiony ... (Advertisement)". Chicago Tribune. 1977-02-23. p. 3. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
  15. ^ "Bloomingdale's Fashion Apparel (Advertisement)". The Boston Globe. 1978-09-06. p. 12. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
  16. ^ Salyers, Donna (1979-08-02). "Sew Leather Bogs With Vogue's Help". The Cincinnati Enquirer. pp. F-5. Retrieved 2024-03-04.
  17. ^ a b c d e Gruen, John (1991). Keith Haring: The Authorized Biography. New York: Prentice Hall Press. pp. 89–90, 148, 169. ISBN 978-0-13-516113-5.
  18. ^ Slesin, Suzanne (April 18, 1986). "An Artist Turns Retailer". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2024-02-29.
  19. ^ Sheff, David (1989-08-10). "Keith Haring: Just Say Know". Rolling Stone. Retrieved 2024-03-03.
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