Cunninghamhead, Perceton and Annick Lodge

Cunninghamhead is a village in North Ayrshire, Scotland. It is located at NS37654185. This is a rural area famous for its Milk and Cheese production and the Ayrshire or Dunlop breed of cattle.

The History of the Lands of Cunninghamhead and Perceton

The Lands of Perceton

Sir Hugh de Eglintoun held a charter for Pocertoon in 1361 from John de Moravia (Dobie 1876) and in the early 14th century the land became the principal residence of a member of the Stewart family. The old stockade was removed and a moat excavated, probably around a new manor house. In the late 1400s, following a period of absorption into larger estates, the site again became a principal residence to one Ninian Barclay. This resulted in the building of a new mansion, which was in turn demolished in the 1720s, when another new owner constructed Perceton House. The mansion house still stands with a modern office block added for the use of the Irvine Development Corporation (IDC) which was wound up some years ago. The office block was designed so that the whole building could be converted easily into a hotel, however in the event North Ayrshire Council took over the buildings from IDC.

A daughter of Sir William Douglas, Dominus de Pierston, married Robert Barclay about the year 1400 and the lands of Pierceton and Warrickhill were the inheritance, being 900 Scots acres of among the most fertile lands in Dreghorn Parish. Previously they were part of the possessions of John Balliol, King of Scots and his near relatives, de Ferrars and de la Suche (Zouche). The Barclay family sold the property in 1720 to the Macredies, however the Baronetcy continued in the time of Robertson (1823), the family then residing in Middlesex. Perceton was originally a Barony held under Hugh de Morville. In 1640 the Lands of Perstoune held by the Laird were valued at £700.

The Macredie's were involved in British Army service and various business pursuits until John Macredie succeeded in 1816. He had a daughter, Rachel Anne, who married Patrick Boyle Mure, second son of Thomas Mure of Warriston, by Helen, daughter of the Hon. Patrick Boyle of Shewalton, third son of John, second Earl of Glasgow. In addition to the name Mure he assumed the name of Macredie. Mure Macredie died in 1868, leaving two sons and three daughters. The Yellow Archangel flower grows in the estate near to the old farm buildings. This species is possibly a native to Ayrshire, however it has a close distribution link to country estates and this makes its status as a native species rather uncertain. Perceton Mill is marked on the 1860 OS and stood until the early 1990's, finishing its useful life as the local shop and Post Office. It was an early example of sustainability, generating its own electricity from the early 1900's using a generator linked to the gearing of the waterwheel (Roberts 2006). The line of the lade is still clear running below the site of the old road and coming out to rejoin the river downstream, near the car park of the Free Church building behind the old Perceton Church. The parishes of Dreghorn and Perceton (also spelt Percetoun (1775), Perrostoun (1807), Percieton (1820), Pierceton, Pierston or Pierstoun) were united in 1668 and the old pre-reformation church on the densely wooded mound at Perceton was abandoned. The ruins are still fairly substantial and clearly visible, with the church and churchyard containing many monuments to the historic families of Cunninghamhead and Pierceton. The mound is partly man made, but does not seem to have any prehistory attached to it, despite its proximity to the Lawthorn Cairn. The Free Church became the Mission Hall for the parish church in Dreghorn and recently it has become an evangelical Christian centre. The entire church, churchyard and hall have all been fenced off and the gates padlocked (2006). The old village and Parish of Perceton had been almost as large as Dreghorn in earlier times, all the surrounding farms housing a significant population

The Scottish Wildlife Trust, based in Edinburgh, obtained a nature reserve here which was originally established by Irvine Development Corporation. It comprises a wooded area and open water, the latter being an old curling pond associated with Perceton House. The site is recognised for the bat species which roost and hibernate in the old estate's trees. A miners row called Perceton Row is still to be found near Dreghorn.

Maid Morville's Mound lies on the Dreghorn to Dundonald road, just before the Holmside Bridge over the Irvine, and it is said to commemorate a lady of the house of De Morville who drowned at the ford in around the (MacIntosh 1894). It is not obvious today (2006) and may have been destroyed by the road earthworks of the expressway.

Nether-Pierstoun

The Barclays held this estate for several centuries. King Robert the Bruce originally gave the lands of Pierstoun and Warrickhill to Sir James Stewart in around 1330. His son James inherited and his only offspring, a daughter, married Sir William Douglas (see Perceton) who took the title of Pierston and in turn his only offspring again were daughters, the eldest of whom married Robert Barclay in around 1444. Charles II made Robert Barclay a Baronet by Letters Patent in 1668. The Barclays were much travelled and had strong social links with British and foreign royalty, also serving with distinction in the Royal Navy and the army. Nether-Pierstoun became simply Pierstoun / Perceton upon its sale to Andrew Macreadie, Provost of Stranraer in 1720 (Dobie 1876).

Over-Pearston

The Blairs of Adamton, related to the Blairs of Blair, acquired this property through the marriage of John Blair with the eldest daughter of Sir William Douglas of Peirstoun. Pearston-hall (now Annick Lodge) stood on this estate. The property passed through the hands of the Earl of Eglintoun and Wintoun, various Montgomeries, James Somerville of Kennox, then further Montgomeries and others before becoming the property of Alexander Montgomerie of Coilsfield in the 19th. C.

Annick Lodge and Estate

Annick Lodge (previously Annack, Annoch or Annock) and estate was built by Captain Montgomery, the brother of the Earl of Eglinton and it was visited by John Stoddart in 1800 on his return from his tour of Scotland. Stoddart calls the new house "a complete specimen of the English ferme ornee". Hussey states that this term describes a country estate laid out partly according to aesthetic principles and partly for farming. Ferme ornee were an expression in landscape gardening of the Romantic Movement of 18th.-century Europe, i.e. a working farm, domestic animals, natural landscape joined with follies and grottoes, statuary and classical texts combined with avenued walks, flowing water, lakes, areas of light and shade, special plantimgs and inspirational views. Annick Lodge estate is partly on the site of a previous small estate, called Greenvale, Greenville or Greenval. Aiton records that Annack-lodge had gardens with hot-houses, greenhouse, etc. as early as 1811. The estate had a common boundary march with the Cunninghamhead estate.

The second laird of Annick Lodge, who succeeded in 1802, was Lieutenant-Colonel of the Ayrshire Yeomanry Cavalry, a magistrate and deputy-lieutenant of Ayrshire. One of the sons of the family wrote a vocabulary of the American Indians of the Columbia River and Puget's Sound! (Robertson 1908).

The river bed here at Annick Bridge contains animal fossils and some fine specimens were removed by members of the Kilamarnock Glenfield Ramblers. It is now very rural (2006) despite the previous mining and quarrying activity and the presence of the old railway and abadoned estate coal siding nearby. A fine three arched sandstone railway viaduct on the old Glasgow and South Western Railway, later the London, Midland and Scottish, is located just upstream from the Annick Bridge. It was restored to good order in 2005 / 2006, despite being redundant. The area beside the northern bank of the River Annick is known as Friersmill Holm. The 'Reid Friers' were the Red Friars, better known as the Knights Templar and the mill in this vicinity would have been one of many belonging to the order in Scotland, however no indication of its exact site is found on the OS or any other old maps of the district. The Annick Lodge policies contain a number of fine specimen trees, especially some very large common oaks.

Greenville

The name of a property called Greenville is found on the 1775 Armstrong map and Aiton refers to this country seat as Greenvale in 1811. It is Greenval on Ainslie's 1821 map and Dobie (1876) states that the name was Greenvale. The estate was made up of all the mains lands of Over-Pearston, sometimes called Pearston-Blair, acquired by Alexander Montgomerie, second son of Alexander Montgomerie of Skelmorlie and Coilsfield, in 1790. His mother was Lillias Montgomerie, heiress of Skelmorlie and he was born in 1744. He also purchased the old estate of Braehead and the lands of Roddinghill (previously Redenhill in 1775 and Ruddinghill in 1832), giving the name Annick Lodge to the collective whole. Part of the old 'proper building' of Pont's day (17th. C.) was exposed during repair work on Annick Lodge in the 1870's. lodge had gardens with hot-houses, greenhouse, etc. as early as 1811. The estate had a common boundary march with the Cunninghamhead estate.

Bourtreehill Estate

Listed by Pont/Blaeu as Bourtreen in 1654 and other variations are Bourtree and Bow Tree. A Bour Tree is the Ayrshire name for the Common Elder tree, Sambucus nigra, often found in the older and more biodiverse local woods. The estate was within the demesne of the De Morvilles, Lords of Cunninghame, and passed by marriage to Alan de la Zouche and William de Ferrars (see Lambroughton) who, as supporters of John Baliol forfeited the property to Robert the Bruce. James Francis of Stane obtained most of the property and Roger de Blair a small portion, for which he had to annually pay twelve silver pennies or a pair of gilt spurs to the King. In 1621 William, son of John Cuninghame of Cunninghamhead holds the property and by 1661 it is in the hands of Hugh, later Earl of Eglintoun. In 1685 Sir James Montgomerie of Skelmorlie is named as heir. In 1748 Peter Montgomerie, Merchant in Glasgow, purchased it and his son then sold it on to Robert Hamilton of Rozelle. Robert's daughter, Jean, Countess of Crawfurd, inherited and it it later passed to Archibald William, Earl of Eglintoun. Alexander Guthrie of Mount in Kilmarnock purchased Bourtreehill in 1847 and it passed to his daughter, Christina in 1852 (Dobie 1876). Christina married the Hon. D.A.F.Browne, who became Lord Oranmore and Browne in the Peerage of Ireland.

Cunninghamhead Castle / House and Estate

The previous name of the area was Woodhead, the name change to Cunninghamhead taking place before 1418, indeed a charter dated 1346 from King David II to Godfrey de Ross refers to him as being 'of Coyninghamheid' (MacDonald 2006). This Godfrey also held Corsehill Castle in Stewarton. Gordon's map of 1654 shows Cuningham Head and Rungham is marked on Moll's 1745 map. A castle or square tower stood here, referred to as a "strong old donjon" by Pont until demolished by John Snodgrass in 1747 when a new Mansion House was built. At the time of its construction it was held to be amongst the most elegant in the country, however by Robertson's time (1823) it had been altered and had lost much of its previous elegance. The arms of the Snodgrass family were a figure of justice, suspending a balance; Motto, - Discite Justinian. The Cunninghames had held these lands for several centuries before the Snodgrass family purchased them. In 1823 the Buchanans of Craigievairn held the estate and a Mr. Snodgrass Buchanan was the owner in 1838. The Kerr's followed them in turn (Dobie 1876) and the 1951 Statistical Account records the Misses Kerr as owning the estate.

Of the many Cunninghame's who lived here Sir William and his brother Sir John stand out, the first being present in the Great Parliament of 1560 and as a great supporter of John Knox's reforms which saw the "end of popery" in Scotland as the de facto state religion. Sir John was a member of the General Assembly in 1565 which was "so obnoxious to the those of the old religion at that time" (Robertson 1823).

The 'Highland Host', consisting mainly of Catholic Highlanders, was brought into Ayrshire in 1678 by the Crown Authorities to prevent the conventicles or public meetings held by the Presbyterians. At Cunninghamhead, occupied at this time by Sir William Cunninghame, Highlanders lived at 'heck and manger' for a month; what meal was in the granary they could not eat, they destroyed; they used fire to open lockfast places; and the Colonel of the troop threatened a farmer upon whom he had quartered himself that, if he did not hand over his money, he would hang him in his own barn (Robertson 1908).

An unusual building of some antiquity stands as a substantial ruin beside the river in the holm on the left hand side looking downstream. A path through the woods connects the site to the stables and to the location of the old Mansion House. This building's remains are constructed of large river boulders and well worked and carved freestone or sandstone. It had a large window and door facing onto the holm, whilst the wall facing the river has largely collapsed and may have had two large windows in it. The door has been carefully blocked up some time ago and the 'holm' facing window may have been made into an entrance. The relatively small size of the structure suggests a social purpose, such as a type of 'Summer House' from the early development of the estate, circa 1747. It's last occupant was a MackAy, who was a poet or writer of some sort. A Charles Mackay was editor of the Glasgow Argus for four years from 1844, contributing articles and poetry to the Daily News. He returned to London and joined the London Illustrated News. Another more obscure Charles Mackay, an actor and writer, belongs to the early 18th. century (Questionable source: Ward 2006).

Aiton gives the following description of a building in the Eglinton Estate which may have inspired the construction of this summer house if this is what it is, saying that "Near to the gardens, in a remote corner, more than half encircled by the river, a remarkably handsome cottage has been reared, and furnished, under the direction of Lady Jean Montgomery, who has contrived to unite neatness and simplicity, with great taste, in the construction of this enchanting hut. That amiable lady, spends occasionally, some part of her leisure hours, about this delightful cottage: viewing the beauties, and contemplating the operations of nature, in the foliage of leaves, blowing of flowers, and maturation of fruits; with other rational entertainments, which her enlightened mind is capable of enjoying." Ruins of other vernacular buildings are also to be found in the woods off to the right hand side of the path leading up to the stable. Quarry Holm, beside the old railway embankment, has the foundations of some old buildings which appear to have been re-used at a later stage in their existence before finally becoming ruins.

Aiton complimented Mr. Snowgrass, actually Snodgrass, for his zeal in pursuing agricultural improvements in 1811, following the example set by the Earls of Eglinton and Loudoun amongst others. The Lands of Cunninghamhead were valued at £330 in 1640. The dilapidated mansion house was purchased by a developer after the Kerr sisters had died and the renovations were nearly complete when vandals broke in and the building was destroyed by fire. The fire was in the mid 1960's and the as the house was too badly damaged for restoration it was demolished.

The estate was at this point significantly run down, the main entrance road impassable even by foot. From 1964, works were carried to first use the estate as a chicken farm and later a caravan site. Recently the estate has seen further works removing much of the unique trees and character that was left as part of the walled garden to a residential caravan park exclusively for the retired and semi-retired.

The Stables

The Stables are partially maintained and occupied, but years of neglect are slowly showing through. The main stable building dates from 1820 and the remainder presumably dates from the 1740's. While the front looks impressive, much of the buildings are ruins. A number of small 'cothouses' were located at the bottom of the courtyard, the external doors have long been blocked up. At the front of the stables are three Staddle Stones, missing their tops. Staddle Stones were originally used to raise tithe barns and granaries off the ground. This kept the produce from spoilage by damp, and also prevented mice and other vermin from interfering with it, as they couldn't climb past the staddle stone caps. These Cunninghamhead staddle stones are rare survivors. The current owners, Ward, have done much damage to the fabric of the building, and surroundings, through neglect. The exquisite gardens haven't been maintained and the dovecote originally above the entrance removed. Stonework where it's failed has been replaced by wooden frontage and further preventative maintenance not carried out. If works are not undertaken soon, sections of the building will be in total ruin.

The Natural History of the Estate

The woods on the opposite side of the river from the old mansion house are unusually rich in plantlife, suggesting that they are long established and not just plantations on previously cleared land as is often the case elsewhere. The woods containing, amongst others, plants such as Male Shield Fern, Lady Fern, Tuberous Comfrey, Tussock Grass, Bluebells, Dog's Mercury, Opposite-Leaved Golden Saxifrage, Woodrush, Sanicle, Enchanter's Nightshade and Wood Sorrel. Agrimony is another unusual find, growing in a riparian position on the Annick river bank, together with wild Mint, just upstream of the old railway viaduct previously mentioned.

The Crossroads Hamlet and Cunninghamhead Mill

The area is recorded as far back as far back as Pont's / Blaeu's map of 1654 where it is listed as Kunghamhead with a water mill situated nearby. The mill appears on Armstrong's map of 1775. This relatively large mill still exists today as a private house. One of the millers here was a cousin of the Smiths of Coldstream Mill and he taught them the milling craft (Griffith 2004). A track from the mill ran to Byres Farm and thus to the main road (Bartholomew 1912). Just across the Annick Bridge is located a dwelling called Tail on Aitken's 1829 map. An area of well established and biodiverse woodland is present, however no sign of a dwelling is visible. This wood contains a very large specimen of a Poplar, a rare tree in Ayrshire.

Downstream from the mill was a Sawmill fed from a lade which took its water from a dam built on a natural dyke across the Annick. These dykes, bands of especially hard rock, are found at several points crossing the river and many were exploited as the basis for dams, such as also occurred at Dalgarven Mill on the River Garnock. The course and position of most of these dykes is well known as they were a major consideration in the exploitation of coal. of the Nothing remains of the sawmill other than a vague indication of the lade and the exit onto the river. It had a right-angle turn on its lade, which is a very unusual feature. The point at which the lade changes direction may have been the site of the old mill marked on the 1832 map, but not afterwards, and the lade was then later reused for the sawmill.

The 1860 OS map shows the Crossroads hamlet to only consist of the school, toll house and Dykehead farm with a few other buildings, probably 'butt and bens' and cothouses occupied by farm and other labourers. This hamlet does seems to have been called Crossroads and the name Cunninghamhead only referred at this time to the estate and mansion. Aitken's 1829 map confirms that the name Crossroads as does Railton's of 1856, whilst the 1923 OS map seems to call the hamlet site Dykehead, which is the farm name. Dykehead may refer to a dyke as has been described crossing the river relatively nearby, especially as Dykhead is marked on Pont's 1654 map at a time when very few stone hedges or dykes existed.

The statistical report refers to the hamlet as Cunninghamhead Railway Station in around 1875. Dykehead Smithy was located at the bend of the road before the crossroads on the Kilmaurs road end side. A quaint method of tying up the skirt at the front in a knot or from below with string to prevent it getting dirty in the fields, called 'Breeking the Cotte', literally 'making a skirt into trousers' was a habit of women working on the farms in this area according to Milligan.

John Hasting's of West Lambroughton in 1995 recalled when the road was tarmaced as this made walking to the school awkward in hot weather as the tar melted and stuck to the soles of his feet. In those days, the 1900's, children in particular still did not wear shoes, except for church on Sundays.

Cunninghamhead Railway Station

The old station at Cunninghamhead in c1930.

A different view of the old station at Cunninghamhead in c1930.

In 1860 the railway had not yet been opened through Kilmaurs and Stewarton to Glasgow and on the 1860 OS map the station at Cunninghamhead is actually marked as Stewarton Station, whilst another map shows (undated) both this station and the recently opened Stewarton Station as being called Stewarton. The two different railway companies eventually saw sense and 'Cunninghamhead' Station came into being. A dedicated horse drawn carriage service operated to carry passengers from Stewarton to Stewarton (Cunninghamhead) Station (Watt 2006) for a number of years. This line, opened in 1843, ran from Kilmarnock to Dalry and then on to Glasgow, the nearest stations being Montgreenan 'up' and Crosshouse 'down'. It was operated by the Glasgow and South Western Railway Company, whilst the direct route via Kilmaurs and Stewarton, operated by the Caledonian Railway Company, only opened in 1873 (McKay 1880). Maps and photographs of Cunninghamhead show a very substantial goods shed and a small weigh house with extensive cattle docks and other sidings. A Station Master's House was also present (Hastings 2006).

Many of the Ayrshire or Cunninghame breed of cattle were sent from here to all parts of the United Kingdom and the British Empire beyond. The Ayrshire Cattle breed were even sent from nearby Wheatrig Farm to restock the Falkland Islands after the war with Argentina. A good sized station building was provided, with two platforms and a signal box a little way down the line. Old photographs show an unusual rectangular sandstone shelter or store on the 'up' or 'Montgreenan' platform (Watt 2006). The 1860 map records the 'electric telegraph' belonging to the railway, this being a novelty in those days. A tragic accident is recorded in which an Elizabeth Kennedy lost both arms when she fell beneath a train here at sometime around 1885 to 1900.

The station and line were closed to freight and diverted passenger traffic on 22 October 1973 (Thomas 1993), timetabled passenger traffic having ceased some time before, quickly followed by the demolition of the station platforms (Roberts 2006). A single running line and some sidings were all that remained here at closure. Very little remains today (2006) of the station site apart from the substantial cattle docks and the remains of a signal box. The nearby viaduct over the Annick is in excellent condition having been restored in 2005 / 2006. A footpath had run down from Cunninghamhead House to the station, reaching the road via an embankment in the field and passing through the fine sandstone wall which runs down from the bridge. The footpath 'gap' was closed in 2006 when this wall was rebuilt. The station was known locally as 'Kerr's Halt' in the 1950's as the two Kerr family sisters from Cunninghmahead House used this station frequently.

A mineral line running from near the station passed Overtoun and running towards Southhook and Springside is shown in 1895, but is not present in the 1912 OS. A short branch seemingly to supply domestic coal to the Annick Lodge Estate is indicated in 1860, but this was not marked in 1912 or subsequently.

Above the station was a cottage, called Standalane, lying on the left hand side of the old road to Springside, which is now closed as a new road has been made closer to Irvine for traffic safety reasons. The old sandstone parapet of the bridge overlooking the site of Cunninghamehead Railway Station has many niave carvings on it, made over the years by local children and pupils from the local school as they waited and watched the old steam and diesel trains going by.

Warrickhill and Righouse Estates

Like Annick Lodge, Righouse was also described as a 'ferme ornee' or 'rustic dwelling' . It was occupied by Colonel Fullarton of Fullarton in 1838.

Warrix (now Warrick) Hill also formed part of the demesne of the De Morvilles who forfeited their lands to Robert the Bruce. Sir James, son of Sir James Stewart of Bonkill, son of Alexander the Steward of Scotland, obtained Peirstoun and Warrixhill, and his son, also Sir James, in turn inherited. This son had only a daughter as heir and she married Sir William Douglas and thus the property passed by marriage to the Barclay's of Pierstoun. Warrixhill became divided into two and the Montogomeries of Bourtreehill held one half whilst the Cunninghamhead family obtained the other. In 1524 William Cuninghame inherited the lands from his father John and both parts were sold to John Edmeston, Minister of Cardross, whose son John sold them to Jonathan Anderson, a Glasgow Merchant. William Henry Ralston, a cadet of the Ralstons of that Ilk purchased them in 1790 from John, son of Jonathan Edmeston. A nephew, Alexander MacDougal Ralston inherited in 1833. The three sections of Peirstoun were known as Pierstoun-Barclay, Pierstoun-Blair and Pierstoun-Cunninghame. This latter portion is thought to have contained Warrickhill itself.

Langlands Farm

This farm is shown on Pont's / Blaeu's 1654 map and it is close to the River Annick (previously Annock or Annack Water) in the area once known as Strathannick. The name may refer to the appearance of the long strips of land which were typical of the 'rig and furrow' ploughing system. Langlands Farm overlooks the confluence of the Annick and the Glazert at Water Meetings; two high-arched bridges provide the road crossing. Langlands was owned at one time by the Sword family who ran the Western SMT Bus Company in the mid 1900's. They had a large collection of Hackney horses with an exercise track and other facilities at Langlands (Smith 2006). A rare example of a pear tree grows near the farm. The invasive weed the Japanese Knotweed is taking hold in the hedgerows in these parts (2006).

Scroaggy or Fairliecrevoch Mill

A mill is marked on Pont's map of 1654, identified as a waulkmill, used for preparing serge for clothing. The site of the mill is marked on Aitken's 1829 map as Scroaggie Mill and Thomson's 1832 map shows it as being close to and upstream from Ramstane on the River Annick. It was on the west side near to a pronounced bend in the river. The term Scroag or Scrog in Scots means a gnarled or stunted tree or tree stump. Specifically it can mean a Crab Apple tree or Scrog-Apple as they were known. Aiton comments that crab-apple-trees were sometimes used in the hedges which were erected since the year 1766. This fits well with the present appearance of the site which has an old wood next to it with a contiguous woodland recently planted by the farmer at Langlands. Crab apples trees are common in the area of the old mill itself.

The Glazert Rivulet and the River Annick at Water Meetings with Rashillhouse Farm on the Horizon

In 1832 Thomson's map shows a ford and a lane running down from Ramstane, which can still be made out and the natural bedrock dyke of the river bed here made this an obvious site for a ford. The 1860 OS shows a lade running across the 'peninsular' of land made by the 'U' bend, with a dam across the river below Langlands farm forming a millpond. At this date the mill is known only as Fairliecrevoch, being a clothmill with a track running down to it from Barnahill and a footbridge across the river from Ramstane. The 1923 OS marks the site and the ford, but does not name it as a mill and the 1963 OS indicates a single building at the end of a rough track which would originally have been the miller's dwelling. Very little remains today (2006) other than the vague line of the lade, the ruins of the miller's house, the foundations of the mill and the lade water outlet area beside the river. The name change may have occurred as the mill at Fairlie-Crevoch by Kennox had been abandoned and could now be used here next to the farm of that name. Scroaggy was name still used for this area by local farners (Hastings 2006).

A very substantial metal bridge with concrete abutments crosses the Annick nearby. It is now without its wooden decking and was presumably built by the Sword's when they owned both Barnahill and Langlands farms. The map rather improbably shows the track from this bridge running up to join the mainroad near the point where the lane runs down towards Aultonhead and Aulton Farms. The track can still be seen below the hedge with a gradient that would be too great for most vehicles and a dangerous proximity to the river. The exit to the road was at a dangerous bend and this route must have been abandoned after only a relatively short period of use.

Ramstane

This 'Butt and Ben' is an old site, first recorded in 1775. The name can probably be translated literally as no obvious alternative seems to exist in old Scot's. Thomson's map records it as Ramston in 1832. A lane, still visible, ran down to the River Annick here, the line it took being still clearly visible. A dyke here formed a suitable site for a ford and stepping stones, which are likewise still discernable. The lane from the ford ran up to Barnahill and to old Scroaggy or Failliecrevoch Mill, whilst another lane didn't cross over and instead followed the river and came out at what is now Cunninghamhead. A favourite swimming pool, called Toad Hole is found near here (Hastings 2006). The house was destroyed by fire in the 1990's but was rebuilt on the same site.

The Lands of Balgray

Sir Hugh de Eglintoun held a charter for Pocertoon in 1361 from John de Moravia (Dobie 1876). In 1361 the Barony of Balgray esiated and the lands changed hands many times over the centuries, passing through the hands of the families from Corsehill, Pearston Hall (Annick Lodge), Bourtreehill, Eglintoun, Rowallan, Grange, Auchenharvie, Lainshaw and others. The lands were divided up into South Balgray (now West), East Balgray, Muirhead of Balgray and Knowehead of Balgray. Balgray or East Balgray was originally called Bagra, a celtic name, on Pont's 1600's map, Bagraw on Ainslie's 1821 map and in 1832 Thomson marks it as Balgary.

East Balgray had been another of the Sword family farm and it was also used to house the John C. Sword collection of 160 Scottish motorcars as well as horse drawn carriages and motorbikes (An Illust. Descript. Cat. Vet. & Vint. Motor Cars). It had been hoped to open 'The Museum of the Sword Collection of Transport' at East Balgray using John C. Sword the collection, however the level of estate Death Duties made this impossible to achieve (Neill 2006). An auction had already taken place to sell off duplicate or unrepresentative vehicles and eventually the whole collection was sold off and dispersed

Barnahill

Barnahill's name previously been Barnhill.(1775) and also Barneyhills on Thomson's 1832 map. The farm is not shown on Pont's map of 1654. The traditional workhorse of the ploughman, the Clydesdale, are kept here for breeding and showing by the Mitchell family.

Rashillhouse Farm

This farm has had many name and spelling changes with Shakhill from Ainslie's 1821 and Armstrong's 1775 maps, Rashshallhouse from Thomson's 1832 survey and Rashillhouse from 1895 onwards. 'Shak' in old Scots is to shake as in threshing, this being usually done on exposed windy sites to help blow away the chaff from the grain. Given its elevated position above the river, Rashillhouse may well have been such a site. Watermeeting's Cottage is nearby, rebuilt from a ruin in the 1980's. The traditional workhorse of the ploughman, the Clydesdale, are kept here for breeding and showing by the Craig family.

Bonnyton / Girgenti House and Estate

Bonnyton had belonged to the Reids of Stacklawhill and also to several generations of the Watts family, who were Joiners and Cartwrights. Robert Watt, the eminent Scotsman who wrote the 'Bibilotheca Britannica' was born at Bonnyton (Dobie 1876). His direct descendants still live in the Stewarton area.

Girgenti was originally known as Bonnyton (not Muirhead as sometimes stated) and was presumably named after a visit of this well travelled man to the ancient Greek ruins of Agrigentum at Girgenti in Sicily. The name of this town has since been changed Agrigento. Captain John Cheape built a rather eccentric mansion house at Bonnyton and planted extensive plantations and shrubberies. Only the two italianate lodges survive, together with part of the walled garden (Love 2005) and the tower. The mansion house and some other buildings were demolished in the 1940's. John Cheape was the son of James Cheape of Sauchie in Clackmannanshire (Dobie 1876). Captain Cheape believed in reincarnation or transmigration of the soul, and was so convinced that he would return in the form of a bird that he built a large tower, with a dovecote on top, next to his mansion. Finished in 1843 it stands 80 feet tall, has four clock faces, a coat of arms and a motto - Didus Fructus (Let it spread its fruit abroad) - all on the outer surfaces. He died unmarried in 1850 and the estate was sold to benefit a number of infirmaries across Scotland. His sister was married to Thomas, 11th Earl of Strathmore and Kinghorne and their residence was Glamis Castle, where the Queen Mother spent a great deal of her childhood and where Princess Margaret was born. She was to have inherited Girgenti, however she predeceased her brother.

The Tower at Girgenti Farm

William Broom, an Ironmaster in Glasgow was the owner in Dobie's time (1876) and then the estate was purchased by a Glasgow businessman for private use then sold, in 1900, to Glasgow Corporation as a reformatory for females. After less than 10 years as such, it was sold again and transformed into a privately owned training centre for homeless boys between the ages of 14 and 20. It was next sold to The Scottish Labour Colony Association who continued its use as a training centre. In 1918 it changed hands yet again and this time it returned to farm use. The owner was now a Mr Muir who was the great-grandson of Mr Thomas Reid of Stacklawhill who had owned the estate in 1827. The farm was next sold in 1932 to a Mr Sword who took considerable interest in the outbuildings, had the tower restored and the clock repaired. A Mr and Mrs Smith owned and worked the farm from around 1960.

Auchenharvie Castle

The ruins still stand in a strongly defensible position at Auchenharvie Farm. Previously the castle was known as Achin-Hervy, Auchinbervy by Moll in 1745, Achenhay (1775 & 1807), Auchenhowy is used by Ainslie in 1821. The meaning is suggested by Pont as being 'Field of yellow corn'. The castle had long been in the hands of the Cunninghames and notably it was owned by Dr. Robert Cunninghame who was created a Baronet of Nova Scotia in 1673 and was Physician to Charles II in Scotland. He was very wealthy and purchased the Barony of Stevenston (Dobie 1876). In January 1678 Robert Cunynghame, apothecary / druggist in Edinburgh, is stated to be the heir to Anne, daughter of Sir Robert Cunynghame of Auchenharvie. She was Robert's cousin German and part of his inheritance was the Barony of Stevenston and the lands of Auchenharvie. He also owned some of the lands of Lambroughton and Chapeltoun. He married Anne Purves of Purves Hall in 1669 and had seventeen children. Despite his inheritance he later got into serious debt (Dobie 1776). A good deal remains of this typical tower castle, which has been ruinous since the 1770's, with indications of the barrel roof vaulting, side tower, ornate sandstone ornamentation, etc. Uncommon orchids have been recorded as growing on the motte. An estate named Auchenharvie was built by the family in Stevenston and although demolished, the name lives on in Auchenharvie Academy.

The Turnpike and Milestones

Wheeled vehicles were unknown to farmers in Ayrshire until the end of the 17th. century and prior to this sledges were used to haul loads (Strawhorn 1951) as wheeled vehicles were completely useless. Roads at this time were mere tracks and such bridges as there were could only take pedestrians, men on horseback or pack-animals. The first wheeled vehicles to be used in Ayrshire were carts offered gratis to labourers working on Riccarton Bridge in 1726 and even then some refused to use them.

The road running up from Irvine to Cunninghamehead and on to Stewarton was made into a turnpike by the 'Ayr Roads Act of 1767' (McClure 1994) and the opportunity was taken to move its route to make the road as convenient as possible for travellers. The date of construction is unclear as the 1775 map doesn't show a new route. Toll house were at intervals and one was on the right as the road joins with the Stewarton to Kilmaurs road opposite the site of the old Lainshaw Mill and the other toll house. Cunninghamhead Toll house was at the corner where the road runs down to the mill (1860 OS).

In 1782 Neil Snodgrass of Cunninghamhead petitioned the road meeting at Stewarton for compensation. In adjusting the line of a road, a piece of his improved land had been taken; he had been given in return the land occupied by the old line. His loss amounted to the money he had expended on improving the land given up to the new road. Many of the local dignatories were present, including The Earl of Loudoun, John Dunlop of Dunlop, Sir Walter Montgomerie of Corsehill, Major Alexander Dunlop of Aiket, etc. His case was carefully researched and he was awarded compensation of £40 5s. 9 3/4d. with interest, as well as a further 50 shillings as the Fee and Wages for a herd for his cattle for five months during which his grounds were laid open by the alteration of the road (McClure 2002).

The name 'Turnpike' originated from the original 'gate' used being just a simple wooden bar attached at one end to a hinge on the supporting post. The hinge allowed it to 'open' or 'turn' This bar looked like the 'pike' used as a weapon in the army at that time and therefore we get 'turnpike'. Other than providing better roads, the turnpikes settled the confusion of the different lengths given to miles (Thompson 1999), which varied from 4,854 to nearly 7000 feet. Long miles, short miles, Scotch or Scot's miles (5,928 feet), Irish miles (6,720 feet), etc. all existed. 5280 seems to have been an average! Another important point is that when these new toll roads were constructed the Turnpike Trusts went to a great deal of trouble to improve the route of the new road and these changes could be quite considerable. The tolls on roads were abolished in 1878 to be replaced by a road assessment, which was taken over by the County Council in 1889.

Red sandstone milestones were positioned every mile. Only one survives in the hedge opposite the entrance to the upper Law Mount field, indicating Stewarton 1 mile and Irvine 6 3/4 miles, another was positioned opposite the entrance to Mid Lambroughton farm and as with the others the only remaining clue is a 'kink' in the hedgerow as seen near Langlands Farm. The milestones were buried during the Second World War so as not to provide assistance to invading troops, German spies, etc. (Wilson 2006). This seems to have happened all over Scotland, however Fife was more fortunate than Ayrshire, for the stones were taken into storage and put back in place after the war had finished (Stephen 1967-68).

Newtonhead, Paddocklaw, Overton, Newtonhead and Southhook Farms

Only a Newton farm is marked on the 1775 map and a by 1860 a Newtonend Farm is shown just beside the railway, but it is no longer marked by 1897.

Not shown on the 1775 Armstrong map, Paddocklaw was shown on a crossroads in 1821 on Ainslie's map. The name was originally Puddocklaw, which is Toad Hill or Burial Mound in Scot's. Thomson's 1820 map only shows three roads and not the fourth which ran down to the Thorntoun Estate area. Paddocklaw has an unusual semi-circular road running around it and would have been an ideal site for a wayside inn. The road across to Newtonhead Farm is still present in 1895, however it is only a rough track by 1912 and no longer marked by 1960.

Overton, previously Overtoun or Evertoun (1775)) is surprisingly not on the 1821 map, however it is shown on Thomson's map of 1820. The 1895 OS shows the main line railway and a mineral or freight line branching off near the station and running close to Overton with a branch running parallel to the road to Southhook just in front of the shelterbelt plantation. These lines are gone by 1912 and only some low embankments remain today. In 1860 a miners row, coal pit, school and clay works were all located near the point where the Capringstone Burn passes under the road at what is now the Meadow Wood Community Woodland site. A colliery near Southhook and a brickworks and a coal pit are shown at Springside on the 1912 OS. The road down to Overton seems to have had a small Belvedere of trees in 1832.

The Barony of Kilmaurs was composed of the lands of Buston (now Buiston), Fleuris (now Floors), Lambroughton, whyrrig (now Wheatrig), and Southhook (otherwise Southwick, Southook, Southuck, Southeuk, Seurnhouck, Seurnbenck or Hooks (1775)) and therefore this area was associated with the Lands of Lambroughton. On Thomson's 1820 map a East and a West Southhook are shown, but only on Ainslie's map. A Little Southhook is shown on the 1960 OS. A brickworks with this name used to exist in the area, using local clay and coal.

The River Annick and its Flora and Fauna

The River Annick, was previously called Annack, Annoch (1791) or Annock and the area Strathannock is fed from Loch Libo and Long Loch. It has a healthy population of Sticklebacks, Minnows, Freshwater Shrimps, Freshwater Limpets, Caddisfly Larvae, Blackfly, Stonefly and Leeches, indicating that the water quality is good. Mallard and heron are frequently encountered and the occasional Great Crested Grebe can occasionally be seen. Eels are sometimes to be found on land, especially in wet weather, taking a shortcut across the top of the lengthy loops that are found in the river in the area.

Marchantia polymorpha, the Common Liverwort grows on the bare bedrock dykes of the Annick near Cunninghamhead Mill, this plant being much rarer than the name suggests. Pellia epiphyla and Lunularia liverworts grow on the earth riverside banks at Cunninghamhead and elsewhere. The riverside vegetation includes Butterburr, Reed-Canary Grass, Rushes, Water Forget-Me-Not, Brooklime-Speedwell, Giant Hogweed, Hemlock Water-Dropwort, Willows and Alders.

The Knights Templar

Greenwood near Irvine was still known as Templeland Farm and plantation in the 1860's, the name Greenwood being restricted to a small cottage. A secondary school and Teachers' Resource Centre are now present at the site. On the opposite bank of the Annick from Annick Lodge is the Friersmill Holm. The Reid Friers were the Red Friars, better known as the Knights Templar.

The mill in this vicinity would have belonged to the order before their dissolution and the proximity of Templeland makes this doubly likely. In 1312 the Knight's Templar order, who's Scottish headquarters had been at Torphichen, was disbanded (Barber 1996) and its lands given to the Knight's of St.John (Dobie 1876). Lord Torphichen as preceptor obtained the temple-land tenements and the lands then passed through the hands of Montgomerie of Hessilhead and Wallace of Cairnhill (now Carnell) in 1720, before passing into unrestricted ownership.

Coal Mining, Railways and other Industries

A network of mineral railways linked the collieries at Annick Lodge, Perceton and elsewhere to the main railway network. Annick Colliery and the coal pit at East Wood linked directly to the G&SWR main line, the Annick Colliery lay near to the road to Holehouse Farm. Perceton Colliery, near Law Farm, linked to the directly to Irvine on the line from Busbie Junction at Crosshouse. A Fireclay Works was situated close to Springside where a coal pit was also located. Numerous old coal pits dot the area.

Other Items of Interest

The Royal Mail re-organised its postal districts in the 1930's and at that point many hamlets and localities ceased to exist officially, such as Springside, with the loss of Springhill, Warrickhill Row, Bankhead and Little Kirkland (Strawhorn 1951).

Lawthorn Wood is a Scottish Wildlife Trust Nature reserve and from the old maps it seems to have been part of a swathe of woodland which ran on either side of the road to Glasgow in the heyday of the Eglintoun Estate.

Aiton in 1811 mentions "a curious notion that has long prevailed in the County of Ayr, and elsewhere, that the wool of sheep was pernicious to the growth of thorns".

A large and well preserved prehistoric cairn is present at Lawthorn (Smith 1895). Its name is suggestive of a court hill or burial mound. It is 21 paces in diameter at the base, 14 feet in diameter at the top and 9 feet 8 inches high. It is largely composed of boulders and a large one made of graywacke, 7 feet long, is partly buried on the top edge facing south (Smith 1895).

A dwelling with the unusual name of Little Sea is indicated as lying between Ruddinghill (now Roddinghill) Farm and Fairleycrivoch (now Fairliecrevoch) Farm on the Thomson 1832 map. It is not shown on the 1860 or subsequent OS maps.

A dwelling named Dambuck or Damback lay close to the railway embankment near West Balgray (just Balgary in 1832), it is last named on the 1860 map, but the site is still shown on the 1921 OS . Limekilns are a feature of some farms in the area, indicated in 1860 at Fairliecrevoch and Barnahill.

Frederick the Great of Prussia visited Irvine and made a trip to Perceton before returning to Potsdam.

Limekilns seem to have come into regular use about the 18th century. Large limestone blocks were used for building but the smaller pieces were burnt, using coal dug in the parish (Topog Dict Scot) to produce lime which was a useful commodity in various ways: it could be spread on the fields to reduce acidity, for lime-mortar in buildings or for lime-washing on farm buildings. It was regarded as cleansing agent.

Definitions

• Bour Tree - a Common Elder
• Breike - trousers
• Butt & Ben - Literally 'backwards and forwards'. A dwelling entered by a single shared fore-door with a double partition and doors to the living quarters on one side and the byre on the other. A person sitting in the living area, called the in-seat, would look butt to the byre and someone in the byre would look ben to the living area.
• Cothouse - a dwelling with or without land attached. A tied cottage to a farm labourer and his family.
• Cottar - a tenant .
• Cotte - woman’s or child’s petticoat; a skirt
• Demesne - all the land, not necessarily all contiguous to the castle, that was retained by the lord for his own use as distinguished from that "alienated" or granted to others as tenants. Initially the demesne lands were worked on the lord's behalf by villeins or by serfs, in fulfillment of their feudal obligations.
• Dyke - in geology an intrusion or band of hard stone, usually igneous, often running for miles and eroded very slowly in relation to softer rocks.
• Heck - a rack for keeping fodder, often coupled with manger. 'Food and board' in modern terms.
• Law - a small hill or burial mound.
• Reid Frier - the Red Friars or Knights Templar.
• Rodden - a rough track, sheep path or right of way.
• Scrag - a variant of the commoner Scot's word Scrog, meaning a gnarled or stunted tree or tree-stump, specifically a crab-apple tree or its fruit, previously called scrag-apples.
• Shak - to shake as in the threshing of grain.

References

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