Kilwinning Abbey: Difference between revisions

Coordinates: 55°39′14.29″N 4°41′52.65″W / 55.6539694°N 4.6979583°W / 55.6539694; -4.6979583
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Browse history interactively
← Previous editNext edit →
Content deleted Content added
VisualWikitext
Line 122: Line 122:


==Burials==
==Burials==
* [[Bernard of Kilwinning]]
* [[Bernard of Kilwinning]].
* [[Earls of Eglinton|Earls of Eglinton and Winton]]
* [[Earls of Eglinton|Earls of Eglinton and Winton]].
* Glasgows of [[The Lands of Montgreenan|Montgreenan]]
* Glasgows of [[The Lands of Montgreenan|Montgreenan]].
* Reverend Doctor James Steven - mentioned in Burns's 'The Calf'.
* David Muir of Woodgreen - town benefactor and chamberlain to the Earl of Eglinton.


==The Doocot==
==The Doocot==

Revision as of 21:02, 7 December 2009

Kilwinning Abbey
Monastery information
OrderTironensian
Establishedcirca 1162 - 1168
Disestablished1592
Mother houseKelso Abbey
People
Founder(s)Richard de Morville
Part of the 1816 clock mechanism made by John Blair of Kilwinning

Kilwinning Abbey is a ruined abbey located in the centre of the town of Kilwinning, North Ayrshire.

History

The establishment of the Abbey

Kilwinning Abbey as it stands today

The ancient name of the town is 'Segdoune' or 'Saigtown', probably derived from 'Sanctoun', meaning the 'town of the saint'.[1] Saint Winnings festival was on 21 January and the year of his arrival from Ireland was 715 AD.[2] The site for the first church and later the abbey was revealed to Saint Winning by an Angel in a vision.[3]

Kilwinning was a Tironensian Benedictine monastic community dedicated to Saint Winning, founded sometime between 1162 and 1188 with monks coming from Kelso.[4] The patron is not known for certain, but it may have been Richard de Morville, Lord of Cunninghame, perhaps with the backing and assistance of King William of Scotland. A story developed that the Sir Richard de Morville who was involved in the murder of Thomas a Becket was the founder of the abbey, however despite the likeihood of the families being the same, the dates of the events make this connection impossible.[5]

The abbey, located far away in the west at a distance from the core of Lowland Scotland, is not very well recorded, and few of its records have come down to posterity as the chartulary has been destroyed or lost. Timothy Pont in the 17th century claimed to have studied the abbey's chartulary, possibly at Eglinton Castle; certainly the seal of the monastery was preserved at the castle.[6] It is also significant that it was not a founded by the monarch and its beginnings were accordingly less grand than would have otherwise been the case.

An early legend tells of Saint Winning sending his monks to fish in the River Garnock, however no matter how hard they tried or how long they persevered they could catch nothing. The saint in response placed a curse on the river, preventing it from ever having fish in its waters; the river responded by changing course and thereby avoiding the curse. It is clear that the river has substantially changed its course in recorded history, previously having entered the sea at Stevenston. Ardeer therefore being an island at that time. Blaeu's map printed in 1654 shows this.[7][3]

The historian John Smith records that Corsehillmuir was the site of the ecclesiastical burning of witches and other criminals from the barony.[8] Corsehillmuir have also have been the site of the old churchyard of Segdoune or Kilwinning.[9]

King Robert II granted the abbey a charter, erecting all the lands of the Barony of Kilwinning into a free regality, with full jurisdiction. They received ratifications of this charter from Robert III and James IV. King James IV visited the abbey in 1507, making an offering of 14s. to its relics.[10]

The abbot was the ecclesiastical baron of the baronies held by the abbey and this gave the rights of 'pit and gallows', the right to hold baronial courts and other duties. The 'Court Hill' at Gateside, North Ayrshire was the 'caput' for the Barony of Beith held by the abbots.

The abbots and commendators

Dobie's list of the abbots starts with Nigellus, 1201; Johannes, 1208; Willielmus, 1280; Bernard, 1296; William Daunant, 1335; Robert, 1361; Roger, 1400; Adam Spark, 1408; William Boyd, 1449; William Bunsh or Bunche, 1494; James Beaton, 1515; Alexander Hamilton, 1526; Henry Sinclair, 1541; Gavin Hamilton, 1550.[11]

The commendators in theory held the lands and properties in the usually temporary absence of abbots, however the reality of the Reformation effectively terminated such arrangements and the aristocracy 'fought over' the opportunity to acquire revenues, lands and properties. The 'roasting of the Commendator' of Crossraguel Abbey at Dunure Castle in 1570 by Gilbert Kennedy, 4th Earl of Cassilis is a case in point.

Dobie's list starts with Alexander Cunninghame, 1571; William Melville, 1591; John Spottiswood, 1606; Andrew, Bishop of Argyll, 1621. After these times of unsettled religious conditions the lands passed back to the Earls of Eglinton.[12]

Revenues

The Court Hill of the Abbots of Kilwinning near Beith

In addition to churches within Kilwinning, the abbey had revenues from thirteen other parish churches in Cunninghame, giving sixteen in all. The abbey also held lands at Monkcastle and Monkredding. Monkcastle served as the country residence of the abbots.[13] In the reign of Robert III, Sir William Cunninghame of Kilmaurs gave the lands of Grange in Kilmarnock to the monks. John de Menteth, Lord of Annan and Knapdale gave the monks the right of patronage to the churches of Saint Mary and Saint Bridget on Arran in 1357.

The monks held Granges, such as the one at Beith, and this involved them in agricultural activities. Details of the rents from farms show a considerable production of cheese in particular. The monks may also have been involved in the mining of coal, especially for the production of sea salt from saltpans at places such as Saltcoats.[14]

The Barony of Beith had been given to the Kilwinning monks by Richard de Morville's wife towards the end of the 12th century. The monks court hill as ecclesiastical barons, is still in existence and the abbey's farm or Grange was at Grangehill.[15] Local legend has it that Kerelaw Castle was a palace of the abbots of Kilwinning.

Such a wealthy establishment was a great attraction to the aristocracy and it is recorded that the Earls of Glencairn and Angus joined forces as early as 1512, entered the abbey precincts, and tried to physically force Abbot William Bunche (Bunsh) to resign in favour of the preceptor of Glasgow, John Forman.[13]

The revenues of the abbey were calculated in the 1860s as being then equivalent to £20,000.[16]

Destruction of the abbey

Kilwinning Abbey ruins in 1789

In 1562, Alexander, Earl of Glencairn, assaulted and partly demolished the abbey at the instigation of John Knox and the Scottish Protestant Reformation. Pont gives the date of destruction as 1591, however John Knox refers to it having been cast down and he died in 1574.[16] Unsurprisingly this suggest that the abbey was demolished in several phases, now partly driven by the practical need for building materials. Substantial amounts of stone were removed between 1561 and 1591. Hay and corn, recently brought in from the fields, were used to stoke the fire which destroyed much of the abbey. One monk is said to have cursed the men who were despoiling the abbey and calling upon Saint Winnin to save his abbey the saint's statue toppled over and killed three of the Earl's men.[17]

A Mason's Mark on a stone from the old deer park wall, suggesting that the stones came from old Kilwinning Abbey

In the 16th century the abbey had been gradually securalised and protestantised; the last abbot, Gavin Hamilton of Roplock, died at Restalrig, outside Edinburgh on 'Black Saturday, 15 June 1571, following a skirmish between the parties supporting the Queen and the opposing Protestant faction.[5] He had been a great opponent of John Knox and a supporter of Mary Queen of Scots.[18]

Alexander Cunninghame, the third son of the Earl of Glencairn, became the Commendator of Kilwinning Abbey, however he was shot at his gate at Montgreenan by Sir Robert Montgomerie of Skelmorlie on 1 August 1586, as a direct result of the assassination of the Fourth Earl of Eglinton at Stewarton in April of that year. His post was immediately taken by William Melville, however this was disputed, later confirmed in 1592 by Parliament, and finally Melville resigned all of the lands and properties to the Crown.[19]

Stonework from the abbey reused in an Eglinton Estate building at Benslie

In 1592, it was transformed into a free barony for William Melville, brother of Andrew Melville; and in 1603 Hugh, Earl of Eglinton obtained, on 5 January 1603, a Charter under the Great Seal which invested him with all the lands and titles of Kilwinning Abbey and its 16 associated parish churches.[20]

Later use of the abbey buildings

After the destruction of the main buildings at Kilwinning Abbey the Garden or Easter Chambers within the boundary walls of the old abbey, previously the dwelling of the Abbot were used by the new owners, the Earls of Eglinton, as a dower house and family dwelling. Lady Mary Montgomerie lived here after the death of her husband in the 17th century and her son may have remained here until he succeeded to the Earldom. Garden and orchards still existed within the old abbey walls.[21]

The old estate offices and stables built from the masonry of the old abbot's dwelling

Considerable quantities of abbey stonework were used in the construction of buildings at Eglinton Castle and the deer park wall at Eglinton Castle. The dovecot at Eglinton may have come from the abbey and certainly contains carvings from the abbey.[22] The stables were built from stones taken from the Easter Chambers of Kilwinning Abbey; being the Abbots lodgings and later that of the Earls of Eglinton. In 1784, over a period of four months, the building was demolished and the stones were taken to Eglinton.[23] Some of the dressed stone blocks from which the old stables and offices are constructed have masons marks cut into them, showing their origin to be the old abbey.[24]

Part of the old abbey chancel was at first used as the parish church, however this was later demolished in 1775 and the Earl of Eglinton built a new Abbey church using the stones of the old abbey on the same site. An oddity caused by this re-use is the uneven surface of the external walls. A coat of arms of the conjoined arms of the Eglinton and Campbells of Loudoun is built into the church wall above the staircase that leads up to the Eglinton Loft.

Kerelaw Castle was rebuilt, having been burnt down by the Montgomeries, sometime after 1488 and is reported to have contained a number of carved coats of arms of the Scottish nobility, taken from Kilwinning Abbey.[25]

Some parts of the abbey have survived as ruins; later vernacular buildings within the site have been removed[26] and now the ruins serve as a tourist attractions in Kilwinning. The rebuilt tower holds a museum and opens regularly for public access.

Archaeological evidence

The nave and transept were 100ft across, broader than those of Paisley, Glasgow or St Andrews. The building wasn't especially long and was unique in Scotland in that it had two western towers, not arising from the building, but standing seperately, either side, on massive supporting piers. One of these towers fell at a relatively early date, an inheritant weakness being present, probably hastened by reformist action.[27]

The abbey resembled Glasgow Cathedral[16]

The archaeology suggests that the abbey was built around an earlier church that may been built during the time of Hugh de Morville, circa 1157.[28] A long stretch of walling is suggestive of being the south side of the nave of this earlier foundation. The remnants of the chapter house bordering the cloisters and a passageway may have been built during the 1180s.[29] Richard de Morville may have been reponsible in around 1190-1200 for the great processional arch between the gable and the wall; dying in 1189 this may also have been a bequest or gift.[30] Uniquely this arch has a Norman style capital bearing two carved figures, said to be Adam & Eve.[27]

A major development or reconstruction phase took place in the 1230s, possibly completed by one of the de Morville daughters as the male line had died out. Pont states that Dorethea de Morville, daughter of Richard de Morville and wife of Philip de Horssey, 'accomplished' the fabric of the monastery.[31] De Morvilles mound at Dreghorn was supposed to have commemorated a daughter of the family, drowned at the Holm ford;[32] any possible link to the abbey is unrecorded. The two towers and the west transept seem to have been added on in the 1250s.[33]

Abbey treasure

The Black Book of the abbey, gold candlesticks and crosses, silver cups and bells were never found and legend has it that they were secreted away in a vault beneath the building where they lie to this day.[34]

Kilwinning Abbey tower

The Earl had used the old tower as a prison and the bells were rung to gather together the local people for the 'King's service' or in times of war.[35] Bessie Graham was imprisoned in the Tower in 1649 on a charge of witchcraft. During a disagreement with her neighbour, comments were made by Bessie that onlookers interpreted as a curse. Mrs Rankin died a few weeks later and this was taken as sufficient proof to formally accuse Bessie of being a witch. Alexander Bogs, a Witch Finder, was called in to examine Bessie and his verdict was that she was a witch, in league with the devil. Bessie was taken to Corsehill Moor and burned at the stake.[36]

The earl spent a considerable sum of money repairing the tower in 1789, however it developed large rents and fissures the sides in 1809.[37] The one remaining northern tower stood until 1814 when it was deemed unsafe and demolished with gunpowder, just when strengthening works were about to begin; one wall had just collapsed with a mighty crash that shook everything as if there had been an earthquake.[37] The tower had been struck by lightning on 2 August 1809, the considerable damage caused hastening its demise. The bells, the original Kilwinning Bell and a smaller bell donated by the Eglinton family, had been removed a fortnight earlier.

Designs and plans were quickly produced for a replacement tower, the first by John Connell of Dalgarven then a second and third set by the architect David Hamilton from Glasgow. The Heritors approved of David Hamilton's second design, accepted John Connell's estimate of one thousand four hundred and thirty pounds for building the new Tower and John Wyllie of Corsehill, a mason, was appointed as the inspector and superintendent of the building.[38]

On 21 December 1814, the foundation stone was laid by William Davidson Esq., Grandmaster of the Mother Lodge, Kilwinning, in the presence of the Earl of Eglinton and the Heritors of the Parish of Kilwinning. On the 12th November 1816 the new 103 feet high clock tower was completed.[39]

A conservation programme was undertaken by the local authority in 1993-95 and the tower is now owned North by Ayrshire Council. The tower houses a heritage centre which opened in 1995 and displays items of local interest, including the history of the abbey and tower; the poets Robert Burns and the "Bard of the Yukon" Robert Service. The Ancient Society of Kilwinning Archers, dating back to 1483, are an important feature of the collection. The Kilwinning Archers still meets regularly, including the annual papingo shoot held in the grounds of the Abbey on the first Saturday in June. This event is said to be the oldest archery competition in the World and involves a wooden 'papingo' or 'popinjay', which is suspended from the clock-tower, which the archers attempt to dislodge.[40]

The structure is now in the care of Historic Scotland. The Heritage Centre in the tower is officially managed by the Museum Services of North Ayrshire Council, but staffed and cared for by members from Kilwinning & District Preservation Society.

Views of Kilwinning Abbey

  • The Merry Monk on the clocktower
    The Merry Monk on the clocktower
  • Inside the old abbey looking towards the tower
    Inside the old abbey looking towards the tower
  • Archway with ornate carvings
    Archway with ornate carvings
  • The Glasgow family memorials
    The Glasgow family memorials

Saint Winning

Saint Winning's Cross

Dobie records that the only surviving remnant of Popery was the Cross on the main street. The 19th century one was made of wood and was no longer a place of worship or of miracle cures not even being consecrated. He also records that a recent building had incorporated in its gable end a stone from the abbey representing scripture scenes.[41] The cross is aid to have been originally erected at the first church built by Saint Winning and was dedicated to Saint Bridget and to the Virgin Mary. Miracles are said to have taken place at it.[42]

Saint Winning's Well

This well is said to have formed from the tears of the saint. In the 1860s the well still existed and provided pure and excellent water. The well was situated a little to the south of the manse, which is located off Saint Winning's Road.[43]

A well blessed by the saint is known to have miraculously flowed red for eight days on significant occasions in 1184, such as at times of war. In 1826 workmen clearing ground near the abbey uncovered a lead pipe which was running down from the abbey to the well, then known as Kyle's Well. It is surmised that the monks poured animal blood or some other red substance down the pipe to create the 'miracle' and enhance the reputation of the monastery.[3]

Microhistory

The Eglinton Loft within the Abbey church

The area of Kilwinning on the East bank of the River Garnock is still known as Corshill in memory of the cross that used to be placed there to welcome pilgrims visiting Saint Winning's shrine and as a place for prayer.[44]

A two mile long ley tunnel, passing under two rivers, the Garnock and Lugton Water is said to link Kilwinning Abbey with Eglinton Castle.[45][46] Such an unlikely legend may have its origin in the tunnel-like main drain which may have run from the abbey to the River Garnock.

Robin Cummel tells a story of the old abbey into which no females were allowed to enter. One day the Abbot was seen anxiously entering a dormitory from which a crying noise was coming. Upon further examination a mother cat was found with her five kittens.[47]

Burials

The Doocot

A large ornamental Gothic lectern style Doocot, dovecot (English spelling) or columbarium is located near the scanty remains of the Eglinton Mains farm at Eglinton, situated on the 'Long Drive' towards Sourlie Hill interchange. 55°38′18.2″N 4°39′26.8″W / 55.638389°N 4.657444°W / 55.638389; -4.657444 It is said to have come from the abbey which was latterly a possession of the Earls of Eglinton.

The design is from the 16th or 17th-centuries,[48] the abbey having been dissolved in around 1560. The architectural style is in keeping with the 1802 castle, however the ornamental door carvings and the stones may well have all come from the old abbey. Ness[49] categorically states that the dovecot was moved to its present position in 1898 - 1900 and was hopeful that it would be restored to the abbey grounds.

  • The Eglinton doocot prior to restoration. The local council had used it as a vehicle store.
    The Eglinton doocot prior to restoration. The local council had used it as a vehicle store.
  • The Doocot - the Kilwinning facing end
    The Doocot - the Kilwinning facing end
  • The restored doocot (dovecot)
    The restored doocot (dovecot)
  • Medieval carving on the doocot, originally from Kilwinning Abbey
    Medieval carving on the doocot, originally from Kilwinning Abbey

The Abbey mill

This mill on the Garnock was granted by Alexander Cunninghame, Commendator, to his son James of Montgreenan in 1645 and 1674. It is described as being at the west end of the bridge, with the mill lands of Milne Holme (sic) and Strickhirst.[50]

See also

Bibliography

  • Cowan, Ian B. & Easson, David E., Medieval Religious Houses: Scotland With an Appendix on the Houses in the Isle of Man, Second Edition, (London, 1976), p. 69
  • Watt, D.E.R. & Shead, N.F. (eds.), The Heads of Religious Houses in Scotland from the 12th to the 16th Centuries, The Scottish Records Society, New Series, Volume 24, (Edinburgh, 2001), pp. 127–30

References

Robertson's 19th century map with a vignette of Kilwinning Abbey

Notes

  1. ^ Love (2003), Page 49
  2. ^ Dobie, Page 255
  3. ^ a b c Billings - Kilwinning Abbey, P. 1
  4. ^ Grose, V 2. Page 212.
  5. ^ a b Billings - Kilwinning Abbey, P. 2
  6. ^ Dobie, Page 259
  7. ^ Blaeu's Map Accessed : 2009-12-06
  8. ^ Smith, Page 61
  9. ^ Ker, Page 161
  10. ^ Gazetteer of Scotland. Accessed : 2009-12-06
  11. ^ Dobie, Pages 260-262
  12. ^ Dobie, Page 266
  13. ^ a b Campbell, Page 205
  14. ^ Hall, Pages 29- 32
  15. ^ Hall, Page 135
  16. ^ a b c Dobie, Page 267
  17. ^ Service, Pages 7 & 8
  18. ^ Herbermann, Charles, ed. (1913). "Benedictine Abbey of Kilwinning" . Catholic Encyclopedia. New York: Robert Appleton Company.
  19. ^ Dobie, Pages 265-266
  20. ^ Herbermann, Charles, ed. (1913). "Benedictine Abbey of Kilwinning" . Catholic Encyclopedia. New York: Robert Appleton Company.
  21. ^ Fullarton, Page 21
  22. ^ Montgomeries of Eglinton
  23. ^ Service, Page 140
  24. ^ Ness, Page 29
  25. ^ Billings, Page 41
  26. ^ Love (2005), Pages 83 & 84
  27. ^ a b Close, Page 65
  28. ^ McAleer, Pages 816 - 824
  29. ^ Campbell, Page 207
  30. ^ McAleer, Page 841-853
  31. ^ Dobie, Page 255
  32. ^ MacIntosh, Page 262
  33. ^ Campbell, Page 205
  34. ^ Service, Page 9
  35. ^ Fullarton, Page 23
  36. ^ S1Kilwinning Accessed : 2009-12-06
  37. ^ a b Mackintosh, Page 208
  38. ^ Love (2003), Page 84.
  39. ^ S1Kilwinning Accessed : 2009-12-06
  40. ^ Gazetteer for Scotland. Accessed : 2009-012-06
  41. ^ Dobie, Page 268
  42. ^ Kilwinning. Accessed : 2009-12-05
  43. ^ Dobie, Page 255
  44. ^ Dobie, Page 269
  45. ^ Service, Page 48.
  46. ^ Baird
  47. ^ Service, Page 145
  48. ^ Buxbaum, page 7.
  49. ^ Ness, page 24.
  50. ^ Dobie, Page 271

Sources

  • Billings, Robert William (1901). The Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland. Edinburgh : Oliver & Boyd. V. III.
  • Campbell, Thorbjørn (2003). Ayrshire. A Historical Guide. Edinburgh : Birlinn. ISBN 1-84158-267-0.
  • Close, Robert (1992). Ayrshire & Arran. An Illustrated Architectural Guide. RIAS. ISBN 1873190-06-9.
  • Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Glasgow: John Tweed
  • Fullarton, John (1864). Historical Memoir of the family of Eglinton and Winton. Ardrossan : Arthur Guthrie.
  • Grose, Francis (1797). The Antiquities of Scotland. High Holborn : Hooper and Wagstead.
  • Hall, Derek (2006). Scottish Monastic Landscapes. Stroud : Tempus. ISBN 0-7524-4012-8.
  • Ker, Rev. William Lee (1900). Kilwinning. Kilwinning : A. W. Cross.
  • Love, Dane (2003). Ayrshire : Discovering a County. Ayr : Fort Publishing. ISBN. 0-9544461-1-9.
  • Love, Dane (2005). Lost Ayrshire : Ayrshire's Lost Architectural Heritage. Pub. Edinburgh : Birlinn Ltd. ISBN. 1-84158-3561-1.
  • McAleer, J. Philip (1995). Towards an architectural history of Kilwinning Abbey. Proc Soc Antiq Scot 125.
  • MacIntosh, John (1894). Ayrshire Nights' Entertainment. Kilmarnock : Dunlop & Drennan.
  • Montgomeries of Eglinton. Strathclyde Department of Education. Ayr Division.
  • Ness, J. A. (1969 - 70). Landmarks of Kilwynnyng. Privately produced.
  • Service, John (Editor) (1887). The Life & Recollections of Doctor Duguid of Kilwinning. Pub. Young J. Pentland.
  • Service, John (1913). The Memorables of Robin Cummell. Paisley : Alexander Gardner.
  • Smith, John (1895). Prehistoric Man in Ayrshire. Pub. Elliot Stock.
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Kilwinning Abbey.

See also

External links

55°39′14.29″N 4°41′52.65″W / 55.6539694°N 4.6979583°W / 55.6539694; -4.6979583

Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Kilwinning_Abbey&oldid=330310377"