History of Kodaikanal

Main article: Kodaikanal

Kodaikanal (Tamil: கோடைக்கானல்) is a city and a Taluk division of Dindigul district in the state of Tamil Nadu, India.

The earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the Paliyan tribal people. The earliest specific references to Kodaikanal and the Palani Hills are found in Tamil Sangam literature of the early Christian era.

Modern Kodaikanal was established as a hill station by American missionaries in 1845, as a refuge from the high temperatures and tropical diseases of the plains.

In the 20th century a few elite Indians came to realize the value of this enchanting place and started relocating here. Kodaikanal is sometimes referred to as the "Princess of Hill stations". Much of the local economy is now based on the Hospitality industry, serving national and international tourists.

File:Old Landscape.JPG

Needs good image, Pre dam

Etymology

The Tamil language word கோடைக்கானல், refers to "a sanatorium at the top of Kodaikanal, the southern ridge of the Palani hills more than 7,000 ft. high" .

It is not known who first used this name or what they intended it to mean, however, in the Tamil language there are at least five meanings. The word is formed from the two seperate Tamil words Kodai and kāṉal (கானல்). kāṉal means a wood on a hill-slope, a dense forest or a closed forest.

However, Kodai has four different meanings depending on pronunciation. Pronouncing with a long tamil o as Ko....di means "the end". Thus, Ko...di kanal means the end of the forest. It was situated at the end part of the thick forest below, before the grasslands above were developed as tree plantations of Eucalyptus and Wattle.

Pronouncing with a short tamil o as Kodai means the gift. Thus, Kodai Kanal means the gift of the forest. Kodaikanal was created by the forest and it surroundings. So it's a gift of forest.

However, pronouncing with a long tamil o as Ko....dai (kōṭai) (கோடை) means the summer. Thus, Ko...dai Kanal means the summer forest, in reference to this cool forest as a good place to be in the hot summer. In 1779,The English language meaning given was "hot season forest" (kodai with long o = summer or hot season), , ,

In addition, pronouncing with a short tamil o as Kodi (வல்லி) means Creepers. Thus, Kodai Kanal means the forest of creepers in reference to the dense undergrowth of creeping vines in the forest. In 1885, The Forest of Creepers was the English language meaning given during the early western habitation of the place. . The name is now often written this way.

Another Tamil meaning for வல்லி (Kodi) is Valli , the honey collecting daughter of the chief of the Veddas mountain tribe. In ancient times the chief and his wife prayed to the Mountain God for a girl-child. Their prayers were answered when the chief found a new-born girl child during a hunting expedition. As she was found among creeper plants, they named the child Valli and she grew up as princess of the tribe Kurinji and became the consort of lord Murugan The romantic traditions of Murugan in Sangam literature are thus claimed to be associated with the name Kodaikanal. By integrating these meanings, Kodaikanal is that place at the end of Valli's forest which is a gift in the summer.

Recently, Tourists and locals have labeled Kodaikanal kindly as the: "Switzerland of the East", "Set of Southern Emeralds", "Chilled paradise among the Hills" and "Summer Heaven".

Ancient times

File:Paliyan extended family.jpg

Palaiyar extended family

There is archaeological evidence of human habitation in this area before the current era (BCE). Megalithic dolmens dating from early Chera Dynasty times, earthen pots and other artifacts which have been found here prove that the earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the Palaiyar (Pazhaiyar, "old ones") tribal people. Some local relics and artifacts of the Palaiyar can be seen in the Shenbaganur Museum.

The earliest written references to Kodaikanal and the Palani Hills are found in Tamil Sangam literature of the early Christian era. The classical Tamil poetic work Kuṟuntokai, the second book of the anthology Ettuthokai, contains poems dealing with matters of love and separation. It evokes the geographic thinai of the mountainous region of Kurinji. It is the scene of lovers' union at midnight, a forest rich with lakes, waterfalls, teak, bamboo and sandalwood. In this region millet grows and wild bees are a source of honey.

File:RaviLord-Muruga.jpg

Murugan by - Raja Ravi Varma

Love in this setting is exemplified by Murugan, and his consort, Valli, the honey collecting daughter of a Kurinji mountain dweller. He rides a Peacock, the bird of the mountains. The name of the region, Kurinji, derives from the name of the famous flower Kurinji found only in the lofty hills of Tamil country.

The once in ten or twelve years blossom of the Kurinji is an event of jubilation and purity symbolizing the frenzy of a sudden love shared, in concert with the unleashed forces of nature: the amorous dance of peacocks, their echoing cries, the splash of waterfalls, the roar of savage beasts. The lovers hold each other tighter still and forget the dangers of the mountain path.

One of the Kuṟuntokai poems:

குறிஞ்சி - தலைவன் கூற்று கொங்குதேர் வாழ்க்கை அஞ்சிறைத் தும்பி காமம் செப்பாது கண்டது மொழிமோ பயிலியது கெழீஇய நட்பின் மயிலியல் செறியெயிற் றரிவை கூந்தலின் நறியவும் உளவோ நீயறியும் பூவே. -இறையனார்.

Kurinji (Kuruntokai - 2) Beautiful-winged bee whose life is passed in search of honey don't speak to me of desire but tell me what you really saw: Could even the flowers that you know be as full of fragrance as the hair of the woman with the even set of teeth and the peacock nature, to whom long affection binds me? - God

Kurinji

The legacy of this epic Sangam love poetry is maintained by Arulmighu Dhandayuthapani Swamy Thiru Kovil, Palani at The Kurinji Andavar Temple in Kodaikanal. This holy place is famous for the Kurinji flowers which blossom nearby only once every 12 years. The deity here is called Sri Kurinji Easware. He is in fact Lord Murugan.

Agricultural settlers of the Palani Hills, mainly Mannadiyar ("king's servants") caste, were allotted these hill lands about the 14th century by the Madurai Nayak Dynasty, according to some local people , though others claim that their ancestors came later as refugees from the Palani foothills who escaped from the invasions of Tippu Sultan.

Western settlers

In 1821, the first westerner to visit Kodaikanal, a British Lieutenant, Ward, climbed up from his headquarters in the Kunnavan village of Vellagavi to Kodaikanal to survey the area on the hilly ranges of Palani. His report of a healthy climate in beautiful hills with accessibility from Periyakulam encouraged the early settlers. In 1834, Mr. J.C Wroughten, then Sub-Collector of Madura and Mr. C. R. Cotton, a member of the Madras Presidency — Board of Revenue, climbed up the hills from Devadanapatti and built a small bungalow at the head of Adukkam pass near Shenbaganur. In 1836, the noted botanist Dr. Robert Wight visited Kodaikanal and recorded his observations in the 1937 Madras Journal of Literature and Science, which were useful to later botanists.

In 1845, the first two bungalows, Sunny Side and Shelton were built by American missionaries from Madurai with the help of an Englishman, Mr. Fane. In 1852, Father Louis Saint Cyr visited Kodaikanal and returned to the plains after finding only four bungalows; Baynes, Parker, Clark and Parday. In 1853, a group of American and British built Kodai's first church building, the Anglican Church of St. Peter.

Sir Charles Edward Trevelyan, Governor of Madras Presidency,
stayed at Kodaikanal in 1860

In 1860, The Governor of Madras Presidency, Sir Charles Trevelyan visited Kodaikanal and stayed in Roseneath Cottage, which is still occupied. In May of 1860, Father Louis Saint Cyr returned with father Rettary and several Frenchmen, Belgians and Europeans , stayed in Baynes bungalow and by September 29 had bought that place to use as a rest house for the members of Christ Church. The bungalow was renamed La-providence in honor a lady with that name who gave Rs. 20,000 for reconstruction of the bungalow. La Salette Church was finished and dedicated in 1866.

David Coit Scudder was an American missionary who had been influenced in boyhood to come to India by Rev. Dr. John Scudder, Sr. He was in charge of the large and important station of Periyakulam. He had endeared himself to the Christians of the large village congregations of that station. An enthusiastic young American, his emotions overcame him when he arrived in Kodaikanal in 1862, as he recalled:,

"I . . . seized our United States flag, shouted out 'Long may it wave!' . . . at the English collector . . . and did other uncouth things".

On November, 19, 1862 David Scudder drowned in the Vaigai River between Andipatti & Periyakulam, 20 months after arriving in Tamil Nadu. Interment was in the old Anglican Churchyard, at Kodaikanal. The inscription on his headstone is still clearly legible. It reads:

"D.C.S. Missionary of the A.B.C.F.M. In Southern India. Born in Boston, U.S.A. Oct. 27, 1835 Landed at Madras June 26, 1861 Drowned in the Vaigai River Nov. 19, 1862"

In 1867 Major J. M. Partridge of Bombay Army imported Australian Eucalyptus and Wattle trees to Kodaikanal. In 1871, the new Governor of Madras, Lord Napier also visited. His bungalow was named Napier Villa. In 1872 Lt. Coaker cut a path along the steep south east facing ridge which commends a magnificant view of the plains below. The 1 km (.6 mi) path was named after him as Coaker's Walk. He is often remembered as "the man who prepared the most exceptional, the most descriptive map of Kodai". These early settlements and visits by important people established Kodai's legitimacy among the Western residents of Tamil Nadu as an accepted alternative to Ootacamund as a summer retreat.

In 1879, seventy-five Europeans came to Kodai for the season. In 1883 Kodaikanal had 615 permanent residents. Later many American and British families visited and decided to remain in the temperate hill station. It also became a regular summer retreat for many American Missionaries and European diplomats who came here primarily to escape the sweltering summer of the plains. Among them, William Waterbury Scudder D.D. was a missionary who joined the Arcott Mission in 1852, retired in 1894, and was buried at Kodaikanal in 1900. In 1895 the American Madurai Mission built the Union Church building.

Dr. Ida S. Scudder with Mahatma Gandhi, 1928

In April 1915, Dr. Van Allen raised funds to construct the first unit of the hospital at the entrance of Coaker's walk. It was named after him. Facilities got updated from time to time and now it has an X-ray machine, well equipped pathological lab, and an operation theatre with blood transfusion facilities. Government Hospital was a small municipal hospital until 1927. Now it has X-ray, Dental, Maternity ward and other facilities.

In 1953 at a sprightly 82 years old, Dr. Ida S. Scudder sat in her bungalow, Hilltop, at Kodaikanal, overlooking the Vellore Christian Medical College and its hospital, which she founded, and opened a stack of letters and telegrams. Her name is a famous one in India. A letter once reached her addressed simply, "Dr. Ida, India." The mail was heavier than usual because friends around the world were congratulating her on winning the Elizabeth Blackwell Citation of the New York Infirmary, as one of five outstanding women doctors of 1952. She died on May 24, 1960) at age 90, of a circulatory ailment, in Kodaikanal.,

Ghat road

Travelers going to Kodaikanal starting their journey at Ammaianayakkanur village traveled Template:Km to mi in 12 to 14 hours by bullock cart up to Krishnamma Nayak Thope. From there, the Template:Km to mi journey to Kodaikanal was undertaken with conveyance by foot, horses, or Palanquins with sufficient hired coolies.

In 1854, an improved Template:Km to mi bridle path was built from Krishnamma Nayak Thope. In 1875, the Indian railways extended its line from Chennai to Tirunelveli and a train station named Kodai Road was built near Ammaianayakkanur village, to facilitate visits to Kodaikanal. By 1878, the path from Tope was extended and later completed up to Kodaikanal.

Engineer Major G. C. Law was deputed to study and submit a plan to build a moterable road to the hills. The road was finally completed in 1914 and opened for public traffic in 1916. Public buses started using the road in 1916. This old horse trail is now a Template:M to ft wide 2 lane asphalt paved roadway with only 2 hairpin turns. It is always well maintained.

Kodaikanal lake

Main article: Kodaikanal Lake

In 1863, Kodaikanal Lake was created by Sir Vere Hendry Levinge, who was then the Collector of Madurai, by damming three streams flowing into a valley. He stocked the lake with local fish and brought Kodai's first boat from Tuticorin. He lived in Pambar House after his retirement. Pictures taken in Kodaikanal during the early years of its foundation show the area around the lake with very few trees and a marshy landscape the manmade lake had no bunds.

In 1890, the Kodaikanal Boat Club was formed. Today there are three different Boat Clubs with a variety of boats available for hire. There is now an excellent Template:Km to mi lighted and paved sidewalk and bicycle path around the lake. There are strict municipal laws against construction near the lake.

Twentieth century

In the 20th century a few elite Indians came to realize the value of this enchanting hill station and started relocating here.Amongst the current Indian locals, there are often discussions about how their ancestors trekked and climbed the hills, from the villages in the foothills. It sometimes took them up to two full days to scale the steep valleys, braving attacks from wild animals and eventually reaching the summit of what is now Kodaikanal market, to sell their produce from the plains.

External sources

• kodaikanal.org, Kodaikanal History Goes back to 5,000 BCE, interesting but unreferenced.
• Maloney Clarence, The Beginnings of Civilization in South India, The Journal of Asian Studies, Vol. 29, No. 3 (May, 1970), pp. 603–616 (article consists of 14 pages), Published by: Association for Asian Studies.