Taman Sari (Yogyakarta)

Taman Sari
The bathing complex of Taman Sari, behing is the building where the sultan once observed his bathing concubines.
General information
Architectural style	Javanese, Castle
Town or city	Jl. Ngasem, Yogyakarta
Country	Indonesia
Construction started	1758
Completed	1765/9
Client	Hamengkubuwono I
Design and construction
Architect(s)	Demang Tegis (legendary)

Taman Sari also known as Taman Sari Water Castle or Tamansari Water Castle was a site of the former royal garden of the Sultanate of Yogyakarta. It is located abouth 2 km south of the Yogyakarta Kraton, Yogyakarta, Indonesia. Built in mid 18^th century, the Taman Sari has multiple functions, such as as a resting area, a practicing area, a workshop, a meditation area, a defense area, and a hiding place.

Etymology

The name Taman Sari comes from the words taman, meaning a "garden" or "park" and sari, which means either "beautiful" or "flowers". Hence, the name Taman Sari means an area of a beautiful garden adorned with various captivating plants and flowers. The Dutch came out with the name "Water Castle". An old article described a waterkasteel in Yogyakarta; by shutting the watergates, the complex would be completely immersed in water, leaving tall structures standing out.

History

The building of Taman Sari had commenced during the reign of Sultan Hamengkubuwono I (1755-1792), the first sultan of the Sultanate of Yogyakarta, and was completed by Sultan Hamengku Buwono II. The building site, however, had already been known as a bathing place called Pacethokan Spring since Sunan Amangkurat IV’s reign.

Taman Sari was built three years after the Giyanti Agreement took place in 1755. It was first constructed in 1758 as a resting place for Sultan Hamengkubuwono I. The complex consists of about 57 building compounds including a mosque, meditation chambers, swimming pools, and a series of 18 water gardens and pavilions surrounded by artificial lakes. The complex was effectively used between 1765-1812.

It is said that Taman Sari was built on top of the former old kraton, Pesanggrahan Garjitawati, which was built by Susuhunan Pakubuwono II as a resting place for the horse carriage that is going to Imogiri. Tumenggung Mangundipuro was chosen as the project leader. Tumenggung Mangundipura had travelled twice to Batavia to learn about European architecture. This explains why the architecture of Taman Sari had marks of European style. The Regent of Madiun, Raden Rangga Prawirasentika, participated in paying the Taman Sari construction. Prawirasentika also beseeched the Sultan to be relieved of Madiun's tax obligation. He offered other alternative ways of payment. The Sultan accepted his proposal. In 1758, the Sultan commanded the Regent to supervise the making of bricks and various complements, which would be used to build a beautiful garden. The sultan wanted a place where he could spend some time to relax after long years of wars that he had just experienced. Raden Tumenggung Mangundipura, under supervision of Raden Arya Natakusuma (who later became Sri Pakualam II), was responsible for the construction. The building was first started in 1684 Javanese year (1758 AD). After finding out how large the complex was, Raden Rangga Prawirasentika realized that the cost would have been greater than the taxes. He resigned from the project and he was replaced by Prince Natakusuma who continued the project to completion.

The building of Taman Sari ended upon the completion of the gates and the walls. A sengkalan memet placed on Gapura Agung still marks this event. The relief shows some birds siphoning honey from flowery trees. It symbolizes the sentence “Lajering Kembang Sinesep Peksi,” which denotes the 1691 Javanese year or about 1765.

The palace complex fell out of use following an earthquake in 1867, which destroyed several buildings and drained the famous water features. Over time, squatters began to inhabit the site, surrounding the ruins of the deserted pavilions and filling the empty lakebeds.

Legend said that among the architects of the Taman Sari is Demang Tegis, a Portuguese man. According to the legend, a strange man suddenly appeared in Mancingan Village (somewhere in southern shore of Jogjakarta). With long nose, white complexion, and a foreign language, the villagers suspected that the person was some kind of spirit or forest fairy. They presented him to the current sultan, Hamengkubuwono II. Apparently the sultan found interest in the strange person and took the strange man as his servant. Some years had passed and the man had finally learned to talk in Javanese. According to him, he was a Portuguese (or in Javanese, Portegis) who was stranded from a shipwreck. He also claimed to have been a housebuilder, so the sultan ordered him to erect a fortress. Satisfied by the man’s work, the sultan gave him the title "demang." From then on that person was known as Demang Portegis or Demang Tegis. This Demang Tegis, so they say, was commanded to build Taman Sari. Some people rationalize that this is why Taman Sari showed signs of European architecture (Portuguese).

There is a controversy whether Demang Tegis is actually the architect of Taman Sari, as the architectural design resembles a hybrid style of Javanese and Dutch, rather than Portuguese. P.J. Veth, in Java – Book III, page 631 also wrote, "Local research says that [Taman Sari’s design] was architected by either a Spanish or Portuguese engineer, who was stranded off his sunken ship at the southern beach. However, [the architecture] that strongly shows Javanese character contradicts this."

Buildings

Taman Sari can be divided into four areas. The first area is the artificial lake Segaran located in the west. The second area is a bathing complex in the south of the Segaran lake, called the Umbul Binangun bathing complex. The third area, now completely gone, is the Pasarean Ledok Sari and Garjitawati Pool, located in the south of the bathing complex. The fourth area is the east side of the first and second area, which extend far to the east and to the southeast complex of Magangan.

Segaran lake area

A late 19^th century photo of the Kenongo building in ruins. The surrounding area, once the Segaran lake, is dry and filled with plants. Today the lake is filled with human settlements and the Kenongo building is still in ruin.

The Segaran lake area was the main complex of the Taman Sari during its era. This complex consisted of a man-made lake called Segaran ("artificial sea") with some buildings in the middle of a lake that forms an artificial islands. The buildings are connected by an underwater tunnel. It was used as the starting point for the royal family to reach the Taman Sari pools via a vessel. Today, the Segaran lake cannot be seen any longer as the water had been gone and lake bed is now filled with human settlements. The underwater tunnel, which is now underground after the water had gone, still exist and can be accessed.

In the middle of Segaran was an artificial island known as Kenongo Island (Javanese Pulo Kenongo). It was named because the island was once covered with the cananga tree. On this island is a one-storeyed structure called the Kenongo building (Javanese Gedhong Kenongo). The condition of the Kenongo building is now in ruins, and the Segaran lake that once surrounding it has been turned into humane settlements.

On the south side of Kenongo Island is a row of small buildings called the Tajug. These buildings were originally used as air vents for the tunnel located below the lake. These underwater tunnel, constructed in 1761, is an alternative way to reach the Kenongo Island other than by a vessel. Also on the south side of the Kenongo Island is another artificial island called Cemethi Island (Javanese Pulo Cemethi) or Panembung Island (Javanese Pulo Panembung). It is a one-storeyed structure for the Sultan to meditate, or some said, a hiding place for the royal family during an attack. Another name for this island is Sumur Gumantung, because on the south side of this island is a well that hangs above the ground. This place could only be reached via the underwater tunnel. The building of Cemethi Island is now also in ruin. A legend says that there is a secret tunnel that connects the palace with the south sea (Indian Ocean) where Nyai Roro Kidul or the Queen of the South has her palace. The supernatural Queen becomes the spiritual wife of Yogyakarta Sultan for many generations.

The elevated platform inside of the Sumur Gumuling where the four staircases meet in the center.

On the west side of Kenongo Island is another one-storeyed circular structure that forms another artificial island in the past called Gumuling Well (Sumur Gumuling). These one-storeyed building can only be entered via the underwater tunnel. The building was used as a mosque. A niche in the wall of this building was used as a mihrab. The central area of this building is an elevated platform where four staircases meet, and then from the platform, one staircase reach the first floor. On the ground level of this platform is a small pool that was used for Muslim ritual ablution.

The bathing complex

The second area is located on the south of the former artificial lake of Segara. Eventhough this area was not the focal point of Taman Sari, this area is the most preseved area in the Taman Sari complex and is currently the most popular tourist attraction. The area consists of two gates on the east and the west side, each of these gates leads to the center of the complex, first to an inner octogonal-shaped courtyard on the east and the west, and then each of these courtyards leads to a central bathing complex in the center.

The gates

The western gate of Gedhong Gapura Hageng in early 20^th century. Today it has been restored.

There are two gates that leads to the bathing complex, called Gedhong Gapura Hageng was the entrance gate in the west and Gedhong Gapura Panggung is entrance gate in the east. Both gates is decorated with ornaments of stylized birds and flowering foliages.

The west entrance, the Gedhong Gapura Hageng was formerly used as the main entrance to the bathing complex. The east facade of the gate is still visible today, but the west facade is blocked by settlements. The construction of this gate is finished in 1691 Javanese Year (about 1765 AD). The east entrance, the Gedhong Gapura Panggung is still functioning as a gate and is now the main entrance for tourists to the bathing complex. The east entrance is basically a building with four staircases, two on the west side and two on the eastside. Four nagas once decorate this gate, now there is only two nagas left. The building was finished in 1684 Javanese calendar (about 1758 AD).

Each of the gate leads to an octogonal-shaped courtyard, The west gate leads to the western octogonal courtyard, the east gate leads to the eastern octogonal courtyard.

The octogonal courtyard

The western gate leads to a western octogonal-shaped enclosed courtyard. In the past, a building stood in the center of this courtyard, called Lopak-lopak building (Javanese Gedhong Lopak-lopak). Today this building had disappeared.

The eastern gate leads to an eastern octogonal-shaped enclosed courtyard. It has a similar layout with the Gedhong Lopak-lopak courtyard, but within it, there are four pavilions known as Gedhong Sekawan. This pavilions were used as the resting place for the royal family.

The eastern and the western octagonal-shaped courtyards leads to the central bathing complex.

Umbul Pasiraman bathing complex

The gate in the bathing complex that leads to the eastern octagonal courtyard

Umbul Pasiraman, also known as Umbul Binangun or Umbul Winangun, is a bathing complex for the royal family. The bathing complex is an enclosed space surrounded by tall structures. It consists of three pools decorated with mushroom-shaped springs and large flower pots.

There are two buildings in the bathing complex. The northernmost building was used as the resting place and changing room for the daughters and concubines of the sultan. On the south side of this building is a pool known as Umbul Muncar. The pool is divided into two by a central pathway (known as Blumbang Kuras) that runs east-west. The next building on the south is a building with a tower in the center of it. The right wing of the building was used as the sultan's changing room, the east wing was used as his resting place. The central tower was used by the sultan to observe his daughters and concubines bathing in the pool.

On the south of this building is the third pool that was used only by the sultan and his concubines. During its era, only females and the sultan is allowed to enter this bathing complex.

Gedhong Temanten

Gedhong Temanten with the eastern gate of Gedhong Gapuro Panggung in the 1970s

On the southeast and northeast of the Gedhong Gapuro Panggung is a building known as Gedhong Temanten. The building was formerly used for the castle guard. According to archeological study, on the south side of this building is another building and a garden whose remain cannot be seen anymore and is filled with settlements.

The third area

This area doesn't leave any visible remains. According to a reconstruction of the site, this complex consisted of the complex of Pasarean Dalem Ledok Sari and the pool complex of Garjitawati with several pavilions and a garden. Pasarean Dalem Ledok Sari is the only part of the complex that is still protected. Pasarean Dalem Ledok Sari was probably used as a meditation place for the sultan, or some said as the meeting place for the sultan and his concubines. In the middle of the building was also a sleeping room for the sultan with water flowing beneath it. There was also a kitchen, a looming room, a storage, 2 pools for the servants, and a garden.

The fourth area

The fourth complex is the part of the Taman Sari complex that is practically has no visible remains, except for a former hanging bridge and remains of a pier. The description of this area is retrieved from a reconstruction made from the 1812 English army sketch of the Yogyakarta kraton. This area extends about 600 meter to the east of the Segaran lake area. This area consisted of another artificial lake on the southeast of the Magangan complex toward the northeast of Siti Hinggil Kidul complex. In the middle of this artificial lake is another artificial island called Kinupeng Island (Javanese Pulo Kinupeng). A building, known as Gading building (Javanese Gedhong Gading) stood high in the middle of the island.

This artificial lake is connected to the east side of the Segaran Lake via a 380 meter long canal that runs east to west. The canal was about 20 meter wide and there are two bottlenecks in the canals that are thought to be the place where a hanging bridge once stood. One of the bridge is now located in the street that connect the kraton complex of Magangan with the Kamandhungan Kidul. The layout of the bridge can still be recognized, although the bridge itself has gone. On the west side of the hanging bridge is a pier that was used by the sultan as his starting point for his journey to the Taman Sari pool on his royal vessel.

The canal is bounded on the south and north with a garden, now located on the west side of the kraton complex of Kamanghungan Kidul and Siti Hinggil Kidul. Today, all of these canals, bridges, lakes, and gardens has been filled with local settlements; the garden becomes the Kampung Ngadisuryan, the lake becomes the kampung Segaran.

Around Taman Sari

1930 Photo of people living around Taman Sari crafting batik.

Today, the area around Taman Sari castle complex is filled with settlements of 2,700 residents called Kampung Taman. The community is known for their craft traditions in batik and traditional painting. This area is a popular tourist attraction. The area around the Taman Sari Water Castle was listed in Project for Public Spaces list of 60 World's Great Public Place.

Also in this area is the Ngasem Traditional Market (Pasar Ngasem), the biggest bird market in Yogyakarta, and the Sokotunggal mosque, a unique mosque built in the early 20^th century with a single pillar that is different from the usual Javanese traditional architecture.

External links

Media related to Taman Sari (Yogyakarta) at Wikimedia Commons