Jump to content

Gieves & Hawkes: Difference between revisions

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Browse history interactively
← Previous editNext edit →
Content deleted Content added
VisualWikitext
Build it and they will come
Trident13 (talk | contribs)
103,559 edits
redirect to article
Line 1: Line 1:
{{ infobox company
#REDIRECT [[Savile Row#Gieves & Hawkes]]
| name = Gieves & Hawkes
| logo =
| caption =
| type = [[Limited company|Private]]
| genre =
| fate =
| predecessor =
| successor =
| foundation = 1771
| founder = Thomas Hawkes<br>James Watson Gieve
| defunct =
| location_city =
| location_country =
| location = {{flagicon|UK}} [[Saville Row]], [[London]], [[England]]
| locations =
| area_served =
| key_people =
| industry = [[Retailer]]
| products = [[Clothing]], [[Fashion]]
| production =
| services =
| revenue =
| operating_income =
| net_income =
| aum =
| assets =
| equity =
| owner =
| num_employees =
| parent = [[USI Holdings Limited]]
| divisions =
| subsid =
| homepage = [http://www.gievesandhawkes.com gievesandhawkes.com]
| footnotes =
| intl =
}}
'''Gieves & Hawkes''' are a [[bespoke]] [[gentleman]]'s [[tailor]] located at {{Unicode|№}}1 [[Saville Row]], [[London]].

Founded in 1771 and owned by [[Hong Kong]] conglomerate [[USI Holdings Limited]],<ref>{{citeweb|url=http://www.hoovers.com/company/Gieves__Hawkes_PLC/rfrhrci-1.html|title=Gieves & Hawkes|publisher=Hoovers|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref> they are one of the oldest continual bespoke tailoring companies in the world.

The company holds a number of [[Royal Warrant]]s,<ref name=G&H>{{citeweb|url=http://www.gievesandhawkes.com|title=Gieves & Hawkes - Company Website|publisher=Gieves & Hawkes|accessdate=2009-12-20}}</ref> and provides ready-to-wear clothes, as well as bespoke and military tailoring.

==History==
The story of Gieves & Hawkes is one of traditional tailoring, based on catering for the needs of the [[British Army]] and the [[Royal Navy]], and hence by association the [[British Royal family]].

After coming to London in 1760, Thomas Hawkes set up his first shop in 1771 in Brewer Street.<ref name=BritHist/> Catering for gentlemen, his main clients become the commanders of the British Army, through which [[King George III]] becomes a customer. Having expanded his retail operation by moving to No.17 (later number No.14) [[Piccadilly]] in 1793,<ref name=MoL/> Hawkes gains his first of many Royal Warrants in 1807.<ref name=BritHist/>

In 1835, James Watson Gieve is employed by 'Old Mel' Meredith, a [[Portsmouth]]-based tailor by appointment to the [[Royal Navy]]. Meredith tailors the uniform [[Admiral Lord Nelson]] is wearing when killed in action aboard [[HMS Victory]] at the [[Battle of Trafalgar]]. In 1852, Gieve acquires a partnership with Joseph Galt, and in 1887 purchases the remaining shares to form Gieves & Co. He dies in 1888.<ref name=BritHist/>

Having sold his business to his nephews in 1850, on December 23, 1912, Hawkes & Co. buys {{Unicode|№}}1 Savile Row from the [[Royal Geographical Society]] for £38,000,<ref name=BritHist/> in part because the firm has dressed so many explorers. In 1974, Gieves Ltd acquires Hawkes & Co., and the freehold of {{Unicode|№}}1 Savile Row. The company is renamed Gieves & Hawkes.<ref name=BritHist/>

Customers past and present include: [[Winston Churchill]], [[Admiral Nelson]], [[1st Duke of Wellington]], [[Charlie Chaplin]], [[Michael Jackson]], [[David Beckham]], [[Mikael Gorbachev]], [[Bill Clinton]], [[George W Bush]], [[Diana Princess of Wales]] and her sons [[Prince William of Wales|William]] and [[Prince Henry of Wales|Harry]].

==Current operations==
Having listed unsuccessfully as a [[plc]], in 2002 the company was bought by Hong Kong based property developer and garment manufacturer USL Holdings Ltd. There are now various Gieves & Hawkes shops and concessions around the [[United Kingdom|UK]], and in several distributors in other countries.

In the March 2006 report, 'Bespoke Tailoring in London’s West End', by the City of Westminister (Department of Planning and City Development) it was recorded that between 6,000 to 7,000 suits were made in and around the Savile Row area annually, at the time of the report; with Gieves and Hawkes making about 700 suits of those suits. It was also recorded that 20% of Gieves and Hawkes business at {{Unicode|№}}1 Saville Row was from the bespoke operation.<ref>{{citeweb|url=http://www.westminster.gov.uk/services/environment/planning/majorprojects/savilerow|title=Bespoke Tailoring in London’s West End|publisher=City of Westminister|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref>

In June 2009 Gieves & Hawkes began a new partnership with British [[Formula One]] team [[Brawn GP]], providing the team with their official 'attire', a grey single breasted, two button mohair suit, white shirt and distinctive team coloured tie.<ref>{{citeweb|url=http://www.gievesandhawkes.com/downloads/pressrelease/brawngp-press-release.pdf|title=Gieves & Hawkes agrees partnership with BrawnGP|publisher=Gieves & Hawkes|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref>

===UK & Ireland stores===
{| width="100%"
|-----
| width="34%" valign="top" |
*{{flagicon|England}} [[London]], [[Saville Row]]
*{{flagicon|England}} London, [[Harvey Nichols]]
*{{flagicon|England}} London, [[House of Fraser]]
*{{flagicon|England}} London, [[Selfridges]]
*{{flagicon|England}} London, [[Sloane Square]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Bath]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Birmingham]]
| valign="top" width="33%" |
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Bluewater]], [[Kent]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Chester]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Edinburgh]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Glasgow]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Guilford]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Leeds]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Liverpool]]
| valign="top" width="33%" |
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Manchester]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Norwich]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[Winchester]]
*{{flagicon|England}} [[York]]
*{{flagicon|Ireland}} [[Dublin]]
*{{flagicon|Ireland}} [[Belfast]]
| valign="top" width="33%" |
|}

==Royal Warrants==
Gieves & Hawkes have a strong history of both service to the military, and hence to the British Royalty. Hawkes & Co. were granted their first [[Royal Warrant]] in 1809, during the reign of King George III.<ref name=ElegantLife>{{citeweb|url=http://www.elegant-lifestyle.com/gieves-and-hawkes.htm|title=Gieves & Hawkes|publisher=Elegant Lifestyles|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref>

Gieves & Hawkes presently have all three main Royal Warrants, appointed to [[HM Queen Elizabeth II]], [[HRH The Duke of Edinburgh]], and [[Charles, Prince of Wales|HRH The Prince of Wales]].<ref name=G&H/><ref name=ElegantLife/>

==Timeline==
*1732 - Number One Savile constructed as town house of the Fairfax family.<ref name=ElegantLife/>
*1760 - Thomas Hawkes comes to London, and is employed as a journeyman (a runner) for Mr Moy, a [[velvet]] cap-maker on Swallow Street. Heavy drinking Moy leaves the socially aware Hawkes to cultivate his royal clientele.<ref>http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/History/History_of_Savile_Row/</ref>
*1771 - With Moy dead, Hawkes sets up a hatter and tailor shop in Brewer Street.<ref name=BritHist/> His top client was [[King George III]], who later ordered several thousand scarlet uniforms for the [[British army]], and his son the [[Prince Regent]], the future [[George IV of the United Kingdom|George IV]].
*1793 - Hawkes has established his expanded shop at No.17 (later number No.14) [[Piccadilly]],<ref name=MoL>{{citeweb|url=http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/archive/exhibits/londonlook/pages/cat_main.asp?go=geddit&section=tradition&iid=78607|title=London Look - Man's wool suit, c. 1916
Tailored by Hawkes and Company, 14 Piccadilly|publisher=Museum of London|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref> described as "Helmet, Hat and Cap-maker to the King."<ref name=BritHist/>
*1809 - Thomas Hawkes receives his first [[Royal Warrant]], based on his work for King George III
*1818 - [[Burlington Arcade]], a glassed-over esplanade of shops adjacent to Burlington House is constructed under the patronage of Lord George Cavendish who resides at No 1 Savile Row, where [[Beau Brummell]] was a guest before his fall and exile in 1814
*1822 - James Watson Gieve is born in [[Chumleigh]], [[Devon]]
*1850 - Having handed his business over to his nephews, by 1850 Hawkes & Co is being run by H. T. White. As the personal tailor of [[Garnet Wolseley|Sir Garnet Wolseley]], he develops a special form of the [[pith helmet]] known as the [[Wolseley helmet|Wolseley pattern]], which has an extended brim at the rear for better sun protection for the neck. It is still worn today by the [[Royal Marines]] as formal dress.<ref name=BritHist/>
*1835 - James Watson Gieve is employed by 'Old Mel' Meredith, a [[Portsmouth]]-based tailor by appointment to the [[Royal Navy]]. Meredith tailors the uniform [[Admiral Lord Nelson]] is wearing when killed in action aboard [[HMS Victory]] at the [[Battle of Trafalgar]]
*1852 - James Gieve acquires a partnership with Joseph Galt (established in 1823 and incorporating Meredith); christening the firm Galt & Gieves.<ref>{{citeweb|url=http://www.em-online.com/lifestyle/article.asp?id=147|title=No1 Savile Row|publisher=EM Online|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref>
*1871 - of ownership {{Unicode|№}}1 passed to the [[Royal Geographical Society]], which added the magnificent Map Room and galleried Library which remain the focal point of the fine interiors today.<ref name=ElegantLife/> [[Henry Morton Stanley]], sent to find him by the [[New York Herald]] newspaper in 1869, finds [[David Livingstone]] in the town of [[Ujiji]] on the shores of [[Lake Tanganyika]] on 27 October 1871, clad in Hawkes & Co. dress from head to toe.<ref>http://issuu.com/sichi/docs/dt01</ref>
*1873 - the body of explorer David Livingstone lies in state at No.1 Saville Row, before burial at [[Westminster Abbey]].<ref>{{citeweb|url=http://www.cigaraficionado.com/Cigar/CA_Archives/CA_Show_Article/0,2322,626,00.html|title=On Savile Row|author=G. Bruce Boyer|publisher=Cigar Aficionado|date=Summer 1996|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref>
*1887 - James Gieve becomes sole owner of Galt & Gieves, renaming it Gieves & Co.
*1888 - James Gieve dies
*1912 - On December 23, {{Unicode|№}}1 Savile Row is purchased from the Royal Geographical Society by Hawkes & Co. for £38,000,<ref name=BritHist>{{citeweb|url=http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=41492|title='Cork Street and Savile Row Area - Savile Row', Survey of London: volumes 31 and 32|publisher=British History|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref> in part because the firm has dressed so many explorers. This was at a time when the international reputation of Savile Row, the famous street and centre for fine craft tailoring was growing.<ref name=ElegantLife/> Another £10,000 is spent on converting the premises to suit the business. Hawkes & Co. is appointed to dress the Honourable Corps of Gentlemen at Arms, the British Monarch's nearest bodyguard
*1920s - becomes the first Savile Row tailor to make and (secretly) sell ready-to-wear suits
*1930 - a naval suit is made for actor [[Charles Laughton]] for his role as [[William Bligh|Captain Blight]] in the 1935 film ''[[Mutiny on the Bounty (1935 film)|Mutiny on the Bounty]].'' Moy had made suits for the original Captain Blight<ref>{{citeweb|url=http://articles.sun-sentinel.com/1990-05-06/features/9001070026_1_british-army-uniforms-dress|title=A Proper Gentleman For More Than 200 Years, Princes, Politicians And Privates Have Turned To Gieves & Hawkes To Look Their Best|date=1990-05-06|author=Stacy L Ritz|publisher=Sun-Sentinel|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref>
*1974 - Gieves Ltd acquires Hawkes, and the precious freehold of No I Savile Row. The company is renamed Gieves & Hawkes
*1980s - licenses [[Rochester, New York]] based manufacturer [[Hickey Freeman]] to produce a licensed version of its clothes for distribution in [[North America]]
*1981 - H.R.H. The Prince of Wales marries Lady Diana Spencer at St Paul's Cathedral. Gieves & Hawkes make the uniform for Prince Charles
*2002 - having had a very poor 2001/2 trading period where it lost £1million, Gieves & Hawkes plc accepts an offer from Hong Kong's USI Holdings Limited, valuing the company at £11.5million.<ref>{{citeweb|url=http://www.fashionwindows.com/beauty/2002/gieves_hawkes.asp|title=A Hong Kong Takeover for Gieves & Hawkes|publihser=2002-04-25|accessdate=2009-12-21}}</ref> Ends Hickey Freeman deal
*2005 - Gieves & Hawkes make morning coats for The Princes William and Harry to wear at the wedding of their father Prince Charles to Camilla Parker-Bowles (now Duchess of Cornwall).
*2007 - Robert Gieve, the fifth and last generation of the family to serve Gieves & Hawkes, dies
*2008 - gives Hickey Freeman new license to produce version of its clothes for distribution in North America

==References==
{{reflist}}

==External links==
*[http://www.gievesandhawkes.com Gieves & Hawkes website]

[[Category:1771 establishments]]
[[Category:Clothing retailers of the United Kingdom]]
[[Category:Clothing companies of the United Kingdom]]
[[Category:Clothing brands of the United Kingdom]]
[[Category:High fashion brands]]
[[Category:Luxury brands]]
[[Category:Suits (clothing)]]
[[Category:Buildings and structures in Westminster]]
[[Category:Shops in London]]

Revision as of 20:48, 21 December 2009

Gieves & Hawkes
Company typePrivate
IndustryRetailer
Founded1771
FounderThomas Hawkes
James Watson Gieve
HeadquartersUnited Kingdom Saville Row, London, England
ProductsClothing, Fashion
ParentUSI Holdings Limited
Websitegievesandhawkes.com

Gieves & Hawkes are a bespoke gentleman's tailor located at №1 Saville Row, London.

Founded in 1771 and owned by Hong Kong conglomerate USI Holdings Limited,[1] they are one of the oldest continual bespoke tailoring companies in the world.

The company holds a number of Royal Warrants,[2] and provides ready-to-wear clothes, as well as bespoke and military tailoring.

History

The story of Gieves & Hawkes is one of traditional tailoring, based on catering for the needs of the British Army and the Royal Navy, and hence by association the British Royal family.

After coming to London in 1760, Thomas Hawkes set up his first shop in 1771 in Brewer Street.[3] Catering for gentlemen, his main clients become the commanders of the British Army, through which King George III becomes a customer. Having expanded his retail operation by moving to No.17 (later number No.14) Piccadilly in 1793,[4] Hawkes gains his first of many Royal Warrants in 1807.[3]

In 1835, James Watson Gieve is employed by 'Old Mel' Meredith, a Portsmouth-based tailor by appointment to the Royal Navy. Meredith tailors the uniform Admiral Lord Nelson is wearing when killed in action aboard HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. In 1852, Gieve acquires a partnership with Joseph Galt, and in 1887 purchases the remaining shares to form Gieves & Co. He dies in 1888.[3]

Having sold his business to his nephews in 1850, on December 23, 1912, Hawkes & Co. buys №1 Savile Row from the Royal Geographical Society for £38,000,[3] in part because the firm has dressed so many explorers. In 1974, Gieves Ltd acquires Hawkes & Co., and the freehold of №1 Savile Row. The company is renamed Gieves & Hawkes.[3]

Customers past and present include: Winston Churchill, Admiral Nelson, 1st Duke of Wellington, Charlie Chaplin, Michael Jackson, David Beckham, Mikael Gorbachev, Bill Clinton, George W Bush, Diana Princess of Wales and her sons William and Harry.

Current operations

Having listed unsuccessfully as a plc, in 2002 the company was bought by Hong Kong based property developer and garment manufacturer USL Holdings Ltd. There are now various Gieves & Hawkes shops and concessions around the UK, and in several distributors in other countries.

In the March 2006 report, 'Bespoke Tailoring in London’s West End', by the City of Westminister (Department of Planning and City Development) it was recorded that between 6,000 to 7,000 suits were made in and around the Savile Row area annually, at the time of the report; with Gieves and Hawkes making about 700 suits of those suits. It was also recorded that 20% of Gieves and Hawkes business at №1 Saville Row was from the bespoke operation.[5]

In June 2009 Gieves & Hawkes began a new partnership with British Formula One team Brawn GP, providing the team with their official 'attire', a grey single breasted, two button mohair suit, white shirt and distinctive team coloured tie.[6]

UK & Ireland stores

Royal Warrants

Gieves & Hawkes have a strong history of both service to the military, and hence to the British Royalty. Hawkes & Co. were granted their first Royal Warrant in 1809, during the reign of King George III.[7]

Gieves & Hawkes presently have all three main Royal Warrants, appointed to HM Queen Elizabeth II, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh, and HRH The Prince of Wales.[2][7]

Timeline

  • 1732 - Number One Savile constructed as town house of the Fairfax family.[7]
  • 1760 - Thomas Hawkes comes to London, and is employed as a journeyman (a runner) for Mr Moy, a velvet cap-maker on Swallow Street. Heavy drinking Moy leaves the socially aware Hawkes to cultivate his royal clientele.[8]
  • 1771 - With Moy dead, Hawkes sets up a hatter and tailor shop in Brewer Street.[3] His top client was King George III, who later ordered several thousand scarlet uniforms for the British army, and his son the Prince Regent, the future George IV.
  • 1793 - Hawkes has established his expanded shop at No.17 (later number No.14) Piccadilly,[4] described as "Helmet, Hat and Cap-maker to the King."[3]
  • 1809 - Thomas Hawkes receives his first Royal Warrant, based on his work for King George III
  • 1818 - Burlington Arcade, a glassed-over esplanade of shops adjacent to Burlington House is constructed under the patronage of Lord George Cavendish who resides at No 1 Savile Row, where Beau Brummell was a guest before his fall and exile in 1814
  • 1822 - James Watson Gieve is born in Chumleigh, Devon
  • 1850 - Having handed his business over to his nephews, by 1850 Hawkes & Co is being run by H. T. White. As the personal tailor of Sir Garnet Wolseley, he develops a special form of the pith helmet known as the Wolseley pattern, which has an extended brim at the rear for better sun protection for the neck. It is still worn today by the Royal Marines as formal dress.[3]
  • 1835 - James Watson Gieve is employed by 'Old Mel' Meredith, a Portsmouth-based tailor by appointment to the Royal Navy. Meredith tailors the uniform Admiral Lord Nelson is wearing when killed in action aboard HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar
  • 1852 - James Gieve acquires a partnership with Joseph Galt (established in 1823 and incorporating Meredith); christening the firm Galt & Gieves.[9]
  • 1871 - of ownership №1 passed to the Royal Geographical Society, which added the magnificent Map Room and galleried Library which remain the focal point of the fine interiors today.[7] Henry Morton Stanley, sent to find him by the New York Herald newspaper in 1869, finds David Livingstone in the town of Ujiji on the shores of Lake Tanganyika on 27 October 1871, clad in Hawkes & Co. dress from head to toe.[10]
  • 1873 - the body of explorer David Livingstone lies in state at No.1 Saville Row, before burial at Westminster Abbey.[11]
  • 1887 - James Gieve becomes sole owner of Galt & Gieves, renaming it Gieves & Co.
  • 1888 - James Gieve dies
  • 1912 - On December 23, №1 Savile Row is purchased from the Royal Geographical Society by Hawkes & Co. for £38,000,[3] in part because the firm has dressed so many explorers. This was at a time when the international reputation of Savile Row, the famous street and centre for fine craft tailoring was growing.[7] Another £10,000 is spent on converting the premises to suit the business. Hawkes & Co. is appointed to dress the Honourable Corps of Gentlemen at Arms, the British Monarch's nearest bodyguard
  • 1920s - becomes the first Savile Row tailor to make and (secretly) sell ready-to-wear suits
  • 1930 - a naval suit is made for actor Charles Laughton for his role as Captain Blight in the 1935 film Mutiny on the Bounty. Moy had made suits for the original Captain Blight[12]
  • 1974 - Gieves Ltd acquires Hawkes, and the precious freehold of No I Savile Row. The company is renamed Gieves & Hawkes
  • 1980s - licenses Rochester, New York based manufacturer Hickey Freeman to produce a licensed version of its clothes for distribution in North America
  • 1981 - H.R.H. The Prince of Wales marries Lady Diana Spencer at St Paul's Cathedral. Gieves & Hawkes make the uniform for Prince Charles
  • 2002 - having had a very poor 2001/2 trading period where it lost £1million, Gieves & Hawkes plc accepts an offer from Hong Kong's USI Holdings Limited, valuing the company at £11.5million.[13] Ends Hickey Freeman deal
  • 2005 - Gieves & Hawkes make morning coats for The Princes William and Harry to wear at the wedding of their father Prince Charles to Camilla Parker-Bowles (now Duchess of Cornwall).
  • 2007 - Robert Gieve, the fifth and last generation of the family to serve Gieves & Hawkes, dies
  • 2008 - gives Hickey Freeman new license to produce version of its clothes for distribution in North America

References

  1. ^ "Gieves & Hawkes". Hoovers. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
  2. ^ a b "Gieves & Hawkes - Company Website". Gieves & Hawkes. Retrieved 2009-12-20.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h i "'Cork Street and Savile Row Area - Savile Row', Survey of London: volumes 31 and 32". British History. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
  4. ^ a b "London Look - Man's wool suit, c. 1916 Tailored by Hawkes and Company, 14 Piccadilly". Museum of London. Retrieved 2009-12-21. {{cite web}}: line feed character in |title= at position 39 (help)
  5. ^ "Bespoke Tailoring in London's West End". City of Westminister. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
  6. ^ "Gieves & Hawkes agrees partnership with BrawnGP" (PDF). Gieves & Hawkes. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
  7. ^ a b c d e "Gieves & Hawkes". Elegant Lifestyles. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
  8. ^ http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/History/History_of_Savile_Row/
  9. ^ "No1 Savile Row". EM Online. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
  10. ^ http://issuu.com/sichi/docs/dt01
  11. ^ G. Bruce Boyer (Summer 1996). "On Savile Row". Cigar Aficionado. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
  12. ^ Stacy L Ritz (1990-05-06). "A Proper Gentleman For More Than 200 Years, Princes, Politicians And Privates Have Turned To Gieves & Hawkes To Look Their Best". Sun-Sentinel. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
  13. ^ "A Hong Kong Takeover for Gieves & Hawkes". Retrieved 2009-12-21. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |publihser= ignored (|publisher= suggested) (help)

External links

Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Gieves_%26_Hawkes&oldid=333120433"