Milena Canonero
Milena Canonero | |
|---|---|
 Canonero in 2017 | |
| Born | 1 January 1946 |
| Occupation | Costume designer |
| Years active | 1971–present |
| Spouse | |
Milena Canonero OMRI (born 1 January 1946) is an Italian costume designer. In a career spanning over five decades, she is recognized for her prolific work across stage and screen. She has received numerous accolades, including four Academy Awards, three BAFTA Awards, and two Costume Designers Guild Awards.
Canonero gained prominence for her collaborations with directors Stanley Kubrick, Francis Ford Coppola, and Wes Anderson. She has been nominated for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design nine times, winning four awards for Barry Lyndon (1975), Chariots of Fire (1981), Marie Antoinette (2006), and The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014). She has also received eight nominations for the BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design, winning for Chariots of Fire, The Cotton Club (1984), and The Grand Budapest Hotel.
Early life and education[edit]
Canonero was born in Turin, Italy. She attended university in Genoa, studying fashion, period design, and art history before moving to England in the late 1960's to complete her studies.[1] She designed for friends' boutiques in London and began assisting in commercials, meeting many filmmakers along the way, including director Hugh Hudson.[2] He gave Canonero her first break on his short film, which was shot on location in Sicily. She was involved in all aspects of the production and found the entire process captivating.[1] By chance, Canonero was also invited to watch Stanley Kubrick shoot parts of the landmark 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968); on the set, the director asked her to work with him on his next feature film project.[2]
Career[edit]
Canonero received her first major screen credits for designing costumes for Kubrick's cult classic A Clockwork Orange (1971). She created an instantly recognizable character's wardrobe that perfectly captures the film's discourse on class, money, and power through provoking aesthetics, which has since become an enduring inspiration for fashion icons and designers.[3] Canonero continued professional collaborations with Kubrick on his next two film adaptations: the period drama Barry Lyndon (1975) and the psychological horror The Shining (1980). She crafted authentic 18th-century garments for the former along with Swedish costume designer Ulla-Britt Söderlund. During extensive filming preparations, the designers examined original attire at the Victoria and Albert Museum and copied patterns from the collection.[1] The pair also drew inspiration from period-defining art, including portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and Joshua Reynolds, genre paintings by Jean Siméon Chardin, as well as the bawdy paintings by William Hogarth, among others.[1] Their remarkable efforts won them the Academy Award for Best Costume Design.[2] Then came an offer to design costumes for George Lucas' space opera Star Wars (1977), which she turned down and later considered to be the biggest missed opportunity of her career.[2] Canonero won her second Academy Award for Hudson's sports drama Chariots of Fire (1981). Her 1920s costumes inspired a fashion trend; as a result, she was asked to design a clothing line for men's-wear manufacturer Norman Hilton.[2]
Beside her well-established screen career, Canonero is known for stage design. She frequently collaborated with director Otto Schenk on his numerous opera productions. Those include Il trittico (Vienna State Opera, 1979), As You Like It (Salzburg Festival, 1980), Die Fledermaus (Vienna State Opera, 1980), Andrea Chénier (Vienna State Opera, 1981), and Arabella (Metropolitan Opera, 1983). She also worked with director Luc Bondy on such productions as Tosca (Metropolitan Opera, 2009) and Helena (Burgtheater, 2010).
On television, Canonero designed costumes for crime drama series Miami Vice in the 1980s.[4]
In 2001, Canonero received the Career Achievement Award in Film from the Costume Designers Guild. In 2005, Canonero won the guild's award for excellence in contemporary film for her work on Wes Anderson's The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou (2004).[5] She won her third Oscar for Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette (2006).
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Canonero reteamed with Anderson in 2014 on The Grand Budapest Hotel, for which she received her ninth nomination and fourth win at the 87th Academy Awards. She also won a BAFTA award for her work on the film.
Milena Canonero was awarded an Honorary Golden Bear during the 67th Berlin International Film Festival.[6]
Personal life[edit]
Canonero is married to actor Marshall Bell, and they live in West Hollywood, California.
Selected film credits[edit]
Awards and nominations[edit]
Major associations[edit]
| Year | Category | Nominated work | Result | Ref. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1975 | Best Costume Design | Barry Lyndon | Won | [7] |
| 1981 | Chariots of Fire | Won | [8] | |
| 1985 | Out of Africa | Nominated | [9] | |
| 1988 | Tucker: The Man and His Dream | Nominated | [10] | |
| 1990 | Dick Tracy | Nominated | [11] | |
| 1999 | Titus | Nominated | [12] | |
| 2001 | The Affair of the Necklace | Nominated | [13] | |
| 2006 | Marie Antoinette | Won | [14] | |
| 2014 | The Grand Budapest Hotel | Won | [15] |
| Year | Category | Nominated work | Result | Ref. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| British Academy Film Awards | ||||
| 1975 | Best Costume Design | Barry Lyndon | Nominated | [16] |
| 1981 | Chariots of Fire | Won | [17] | |
| 1985 | The Cotton Club | Won | [18] | |
| 1986 | Out of Africa | Nominated | [19] | |
| 1990 | Dick Tracy | Nominated | [20] | |
| 2006 | Marie Antoinette | Nominated | [21] | |
| 2014 | The Grand Budapest Hotel | Won | [22] | |
| 2021 | The French Dispatch | Nominated | [23] | |
Miscellaneous awards[edit]
Honorary accolades[edit]
| Organization | Year | Category | Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Berlin International Film Festival | 2017 | Honorary Golden Bear | Received |
| Costume Designers Guild | 2000 | Career Achievement in Film Award | Received |
Other honors[edit]
- Grand Cross of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic on 21 December 2015.[24]
References[edit]
- ^ a b c d Rubin, Natasha. "Milena Canonero". Bloomsbury Fashion Central.com. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ a b c d e Gross, Michael (February 11, 1986). "MILENA CANONERO: FASHION ON AND OFF THE BIG SCREEN". The New York Times. Archived from the original on May 24, 2015. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Lazic, Elena (April 2, 2019). "A Clockwork Orange and fashion: why the droogs never go out of style". British Film Institute. Archived from the original on August 29, 2021. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Rourke, Mary (May 23, 1986). "One of the Hottest Properties in TV Is the Costume Designer". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ "Awards honor costume design". Los Angeles Times. February 22, 2005. Retrieved February 26, 2015.
- ^ "Berlinale: Prizes & Honours 2017". Retrieved December 18, 2017.
- ^ "48th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "54th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "58th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "61st Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "63rd Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "72nd Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "74th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "79th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "87th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "29th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "35th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "39th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "40th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "44th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "60th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "68th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "75th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "Canonero Sig.ra Milena". www.quirinale.it. 21 December 2015. Retrieved 2018-11-20.
Further reading[edit]
- Fabienne Liptay (ed.), Milena Canonero. Film-Konzepte 40 (edition text + kritik, 2015).
External links[edit]
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